Tea Box Café at Takashimaya - and a Note to Readers

I've always wished that a giant, multi-level Japanese department store would open in NYC - the kind that has a rooftop garden, an art gallery, a floor devoted to kimonos, and, of course, a floor devoted to restaurants. As it does not seem that this will ever be in the cards, I still enjoy a trip to the exquisite (and expensive) Takashimaya - especially the Tea Box Café.

The East-West Afternoon Tea is a splendid affair, with a bento box filled with goodies like green tea creme brulee, chocolates, butter cookies, fruit salad, and a small selection of savories - vegetable crisps, a curried rice paper roll, a tiny chicken sandwich, and smoked salmon pressed into rice (for vegetarians, cucumber/pickled plum is an option). The box comes with your choice of various green, black, flavored black or herbal teas (I always get the genmaicha).

Note to readers: My most recent visit to the Tea Box Café was a party to celebrate the impending arrival of a new generation of foodie for my companion and I. Because of this, I will be taking a break from this beloved blog. However, since it's been a labor of love since 2002 (yes - I was one of the first NYC food bloggers!), I hope eventually to contribute to it again. In the meantime, I will keep the blog online, but probably won't be updating it. Have a great winter.

Takashimaya: 693 Fifth Ave., (212) 350-0180.

Sweets News

• If you are indisposed to leaving the apartment but must have a Jacques Torres chocolate bar within the hour, this service promises to deliver one to you!

• In other chocolate-related news, the 92Y is holding a "For the Love of Chocolate" book signing, interview and chocolate tasting with Max Brenner on November 15. For more information, please visit the 92Y Website.

• Don't forget about the most exciting chocolate event of the year - the annual Chocolate Show! It's back at the Metropolitan Pavilion this year, from October 30-November 1.
  

Destino

With its clubby, congenial atmosphere, Destino seems like the local restaurant that's been around for years. It's only been open for three, but the meatballs have already become legendary, and live jazz at the bar helps to nurture a loyal clientele. (What a rarity live music has become in this city!)

We were lucky to get in without a reservation; a large birthday party was dispersing. The menu contained all the traditional Italian favorites: veal marsala, chicken cacciatore, scampi, pasta with clams in red or white sauce. One of us pleaded for fried zucchini, although it wasn't on the menu, and a large, lightly-fried portion soon appeared. Our appetizers also included a garlicky Caesar salad, a salad of beefsteak mozzarellas and fresh mozzarella, and those delicious "Mario's Meatballs"... plump specimens smothered in a tasty tomato sauce. (I looked around, and almost everyone had some on their table.)

I had been leaning towards pasta (you can order spaghetti, angel hair, linguine, orecchiette, rigatoni, fusilli, penne, fedelini or shells!), but instead went with Dover sole meuniere, which arrived with lots of crisp slivers of toasted almonds. Also on the agenda were a gargantuan veal chop and branzino with asparagus.

We finished with 20-layer cream crepe cake and mixed berries with fresh vanilla whipped cream. Destino really knows how to please a customer! Make a reservation; you might not get lucky like we did.

Destino: 891 1st Ave., (212) 751-0700.

Stumptown Coffee Roasters

Dapper young gents in ties and newsboy hats fix sharp espressos and velvety cappuccinos at this heralded new coffee place. The adjoining hotel lobby, where most of the customers sit, is a very picturesque room in which to take coffee - as we sunk into comfy chairs, my friend and I admired the detailed mosaic floors and antique library desks. We also admired our Mast Brothers chocolate bars and the assorted pastries - big salty pretzels with a pocket of butter, apricot danishes, brownies, and the wonderful spicy stout cakes (I wish I'd bought two of them).

Stumptown NYC: Ace Hotel, 18 West 29th St.

Sweets News

Today's edition of Sweets News focuses on online delights.

• If you're like me, the closing of Payard had you crying for a week. Fortunately, the bakery/chocolatier's E-boutique has been launched, and the site will eventually have news of... a new brick-and-mortar location!

• Earthy-crunchy chocolatier Pure Dark has just relaunched an online store as well. Here's a nifty tip - if you want to receive 15% off your order, just use this promotional code: PD012009. This offer apparently expires on October 7; but it's never too early to order some treats for a healthy Halloween!

Vegetarian Cafés on the Upper West Side

On a mini-health kick, I decided to check out a couple of the newish UWS veggie cafés. My first stop was Peacefood Cafe (460 Amsterdam Ave., 212-362-2266), a vegan restaurant with an enticing bakery display (have you ever seen vegan tiramisu?). There were various salads and sandwiches; I ordered a tempeh avocado sandwich, chick pea fries, and a ginger lemonade. Unfortunately, I ended up being a bit disappointed in the meal; the scant portion of marinated tempeh was overpowered by thick slices of rye and salty pickles, and the chickpea fries were not the Mediterranean-style panelle I'd anticipated. Instead of being light and uncomplicated like at the nearby (non-veg) Nice Matin, they were overspiced and studded with various seeds. (The ginger lemonade was very refreshing.) Also, I felt that the meal was overpriced at $20. Still, judging from how crowded Peacefood was, it is obviously filling a vegan void in the neighborhood.

I had better luck over at Soomsoom Vegetarian Bar (166 West 72nd St., 212-712-2525), which offers both vegan and vegetarian options. A friendly woman offered me a sample of greaseless, flavorful falafel, and I was hooked. The lunch special is only $9.75, and includes a falafel sandwich, beer-battered fries or a baked sweet potato, free rein at the chopped salad bar, and a beverage.

(In other vegetarian news, vegan blogger Lauren Ulm has just released Vegan Yum Yum: Decadent (But Doable) Animal-Free Recipes for Entertaining and Everyday.)

Brunch at Belcourt

My friend and I were seeking a reasonable brunch in the East Village, and were glad to find that almost all of the brunch dishes at Belcourt were under $10. Our favorite item was to be only $7: a plate of piping hot buttermilk biscuits, smothered in berry preserves and housemade ricotta, with an undercurrent of honey. My friend's cranberry granola was unsweetened yogurt was positively ascetic compared with this concoction.

The only other item on the menu that seemed as decadent was the vanilla bourbon French toast with ricotta and New York maple syrup, but I opted for the personal eggs. Mine came scrambled with a salad of mesclun greens coated with a lemony dressing, a small portion of paprika fried potatoes, and a regrettably dry piece of pork sausage (there was also maple-cured bacon and lamb ham). Although the eggs and potatoes were just fine, I think I would have been happier with a double portion of those wonderful buttermilk biscuits.

Belcourt: 84 East 4th St., (212) 979-2034.

"Let Us Eat Local"

On Wednesday, Sept. 16, a delicious event is coming your way! Restaurants like Blue Hill, Hundred Acres, Gramercy Tavern, and Telepan will be participating in Just Food's 2nd annual "Let Us Eat Local" tasting benefit. For more information, please call 212-645-9880.

Café Charbonnel NY

NYC may be souring on sweets, but I'm certainly not. My latest indulgence is the hot chocolate at Café Charbonnel NY, the chocolate café on the eighth floor of Saks Fifth Avenue. Made with dark and milk chocolate shavings, milk and a bit of heavy cream, it is full of cocoa flavor without being too rich. (Lately, there seems to be a trend of super-dark hot chocolate, but sometimes it is overpowering and not as drinkable.)

Café Charbonnel also features a conveyor belt; instead of sushi, it circulates chocolate-chip cookies, pastries, and trios of chocolate candy. (I recommend the chocolate truffle brownie.) If you decide to come away with a box of candy, there are all kinds of truffles; right now, the Milk Marc de Champagne truffles are 30% off.

(On another truffle-related note, the International Culinary Center is offering a Chocolate Treats and Truffles class on Saturday, Sept. 12.)

Café Charbonnel NY: Saks Fifth Avenue, 611 Fifth Avenue, 8th Floor, 866-478-7586.

Motorino

How does a housemade mozzarella, anchovy, garlic, arugula, black pepper and olive oil pizza sound to you? To me, it sounded terrific, but there are so many other options on the menu at Motorino (the above item was a special). As at Franny's Brooklyn, Motorino sports a selection of appetizers and salads in addition to the pizza, but the prices are lower (and to me, the pizza is superior). There's a great $10 lunch special - you get a choice of a hefty, herb-sprinkled green salad or a soup (the day I went, it was a sweet corn chowder with lots of smoky pancetta), and a giant pizza that is big enough for two meals. My friend and I each ordered the margherita, made with melted pillowy fior di latte mozzarella. The crust was only slightly charred; I find that some pizzerias get carried away with the char lately, but not Motorino.

I wish I could say that I was able to try the tiramisu, but it was all I could do to get through two of my four giant slices of pizza!

Motorino: 319 Graham Ave., Williamsburg, Brooklyn, 718-599-8899.

Takesushi

Takesushi, a six-month-old Japanese restaurant on the East Side, has a great lunch special for only $12. Today, it consisted of amberjack teriyaki with takuan pickles, five slices of tuna and fluke sashimi, simmered konnyaku, carrots and crunchy lotus root, two delicately fried pieces of pork tonkatsu over shredded cabbage, rice, soup and salad. The portions were not overwhelming, so my companion and I felt compelled to also order some sushi.

On a recent trip to Japan, my companion had enjoyed some individually-seared (aburi) salmon pieces. We wondered if the sushi chef at Takesushi might duplicate this preparation, and were delighted when he produced a little torch, rendering our chu-toro even more delicious. (Note: this particular delicacy does not fall under the "budget" price umbrella! But one feels less guilty indulging when the rest of the meal is so reasonable.) We look forward to returning for dinner.

Takesushi: 1026 2nd Ave., (212) 355-2048.

Never Be Without Chocolate

"You carry chocolate bars around with you the way other people carry cigarettes," a friend once said to me. Are you the same way? Do you shudder at the thought of being without chocolate? Then you might appreciate this awesome Website, Chocolocate.com. It has links to over 1200 chocolate-focused Websites around the world, from Australia to Ghana to Wales. No matter where you travel, you'll never be without that essential item - chocolate.

Vesta Trattoria & Wine Bar

Astoria boasts just about every cuisine in the world, but there aren't a lot of restaurants dedicated to locavorism (Brooklyn definitely beats Queens in this department). So it was a pleasure to find Vesta, an Italian place where the ingredients are seasonal and local.

With a dim, cozy interior reminiscent of Brooklyn's Frankie's 457, Vesta is comfortable for the couple or the family. I recommend arriving early, as service may suffer when there is a crowd. Remembering a delicious bucatini with broccoli rabe and shredded ricotta salata, I enlisted my companion on a visit tonight.

Unfortunately, the bucatini was no longer on the menu. However, that delectable greenmarket salad was still there. Crunchy with cucumbers, radishes and sliced almonds, it was full of lightly vinaigretted organic greens (courtesy of Greenpoint's Roof Top Farms). Another winner was a plate of three garlicky crostini served with a hot dish of baked Taleggio. The buttery melted cheese was garnished with date paste and hazelnuts. We also had the chilled tomato soup with basil cream, which was a sweeter, richer alternative to gazpacho.

Dinner was a pan-roasted salmon filet in lemon sauce on a bed of charred green and purple kale. Because of a backup in the kitchen, it took a while to arrive. Hungry from waiting, we eyed the half roasted chicken of a nearby diner - it seemed to be of a much more generous portion. (Pasta portions are quite generous - if I had to redo the meal, I'd order the festonati with zucchini pesto, cherry tomatoes and pecans.)

Vesta: 21-02 30th Ave., Astoria, 718-545-5550. Note to Astorians: on nights when there are enough restaurant staff, delivery is available.

Bread and Chocolate

On my recent trip to Paris, I ate a lot of outstanding bread and chocolate. This got me to wondering, which do I prefer? Fortunately, there are many delicious bread-and-chocolate combinations here in NYC, so I don't have to choose.

One way to enjoy both bread and chocolate at once is to pick up Theo Chocolate's Bread & Chocolate bar. (I bought mine at T Salon's Chelsea Market location, 75 Ninth Ave., 212- 243-0432.) This most unique chocolate bar features French bread, butter and sea salt in a base of 70% organic cacao.

Another option is the truly sinful chocolate-hazelnut bread pudding at Cornelia Street Cafe (29 Cornelia St., 212-989-9319). Smothered in thick, rich chocolate sauce and adorned with a generous dollop of whipped cream, it's a bread pudding to remember.

For a more traditional bread-and-chocolate combination, there's the superlative pain au chocolat at Madeleine Patisserie (132 West 23rd St., 212-243-2757). According to the woman at the counter I spoke to, the owner-baker will only use chocolate imported from France.

En Vacances

I've just returned from a chocolaty trip to Quebec City, and will soon be headed off to Paris for even more chocolate (even though author Michael Steinberger says "au revoir" to all that)! I'll be back to regular NYC posting duty soon.

Restaurant Week at Matsugen

One of my favorite dining companions recently turned 40, and we decided to celebrate at Matsugen (we are usually over at Zenkichi in Williamsburg). Fortunately, her birthday fell during Restaurant Week (July 12-31), so we were able to enjoy a generous five-course meal at a reasonable price. (Maybe Mayor Bloomberg can have this extended to Restaurant Year.)

At times, Restaurant Week portions are smaller than the average, so I ordered an extra appetizer - six bites of rich grilled eel atop ginger slices and julienned cucumbers. Although a delicious strategy, it proved to be an unnecessary one, as my friend and I were to be completely stuffed at the end of the evening.

We began with warm, spiced edamame and a bowl of cold, soft milky fresh tofu. The mildness and heat was a nice combination. Then we enjoyed a tasty seaweed salad - its ginger dressing avoided the unpalatable vinegar taste that often mars this dish.

Then, we waited, and waited. We looked longingly at the tempura and sushi and black cod on the adjacent table. We waited some more, and then our next-to-last course - soba - made an appearance at our table. "But," I protested, "weren't we supposed to get the tempura, sushi, and the black cod?" The server seemed intent upon depositing the bowls onto the table, but then he had a little conference with the server who had brought out the salads. "You weren't served the tempura, sushi, or black cod?" she came over and asked. I confirmed this, the bowls were taken away, and we waited a while longer.

The aforementioned items were so delectable that it would have been an absolute tragedy if we were denied them. "This is butter in the shape of a cod!" exclaimed my friend, upon digging into the miso-marinated slab of black cod. Shrimp and vegetable tempura was greaseless and delicate, and marinated tuna sushi melted in our mouths with meaty flavor.

We'd both chosen the hot duck soba (as opposed to cold sesame). A complex broth with ginger and yuzu was the setting for tender, fat-edged slices of duck and a healthy portion of thin buckwheat noodles. By now, the restaurant was completely packed, and I wondered if some of the diners used to frequent Honmura An.

A small ceramic cup of green tea pudding (with candle for my friend) was the final course. We plan to return to Matsugen, Restaurant Week or no.

Matsugen: 241 Church St., (212) 925-0202.

Around the World In Seven Days, Part II: Another Week in Astoria

Here is a sequel to Part I, with seven more countries to visit! (Where to go next? Egypt? Ecuador?)

1. Brazil (also see Malagueta): Brasilianville Café & Grill. This $4.99/lb. buffet will delight both the carnivore and the vegetarian. Spoon some buttered rice onto your plate, and start loading up on black beans, corn pudding, grilled fish, fried mandioca, acaraje, beef and carrot stew, battered chicken skewers, beet salad, and garlicky collards (the menu changes daily). If you crave more meat, go talk to the friendly guy at the grill... he'll fill up your plate with sirloin churrasco. Don't forget the exotic fruit shakes - I like the cacao pulp with milk and sugar. (Brasilianville Café & Grill: 43-12 34th Ave., 718-472-0090.)

2. Czech Republic: Koliba. If you dine here, I suggest fasting all morning and afternoon. Monstrous portions of pork or chicken schnitzel will challenge (and satisfy) the heartiest eater. Make sure to order the homemade tartar sauce on the side, and get the home fries with onion. Take some apple strudel home with you - you won't have any more room until tomorrow. (Koliba Restaurant: 31-11 23rd Ave., 718-626-0430. My grandma would have loved this place.)

3. France (Brittany, to be more specific): Cafe Triskell. At this tiny cafe, toothsome buckwheat crepes are served with a variety of fillings - I like the crumbly goat cheese, which arrives with a refreshing green salad on top of the big square crepe. Sweet crepes include apricot jam with almonds, and banana with buckwheat honey. Please be advised that this cafe is closed on Mondays and Tuesdays - I found out the hard way. (Cafe Triskell: 33-04 36th Ave., 718-472-0612.)

4. India: Seva. This restaurant is a local favorite. I found the paratha rather dry, but there was plenty of cheese in the palak paneer, and the spiced butternut squash soup was a winner. There are many vegan options, including a soy mirch masala. (Seva: 30-07 34th St., 718-626-4440.)

5. Mexico: (also see Tacos Mexico) Las Margaritas. This year, none of the food at the Broadway street fair appealed to my companion and me, so we ended up here. We ordered a couple of health-conscious specials...skirt steak on a spinach salad, and spicy shrimp tacos on soft, warmed corn tortillas (no beans and rice). Heartier dishes include fajitas, enchiladas and tacos al carbon. (Las Margaritas: 38-01 Broadway, 718-777-1707.)

6. United States (Southwest/Tex-Mex): Mojave. The beautiful backyard garden is the scene for
the consumption of countless fruit-infused margaritas. Service can be lackadaisical for lunch, but there's a reasonable two-course prix-fixe - I've enjoyed the salmon sandwich with chipotle aioli. I keep meaning to try the Mexican chocolate fondue. (Mojave: 22-36 31st St., 718-545-4100.)

7. Venezuela: Arepas Cafe. The best arepas in NYC are found here (sorry, Caracas Arepas). Slightly crispy on the outside, moist and dense within, the cornmeal pockets are large enough to hold a lot of goodies without overflowing. Fillings range from the exotic (truffle butter tuna with pico de gallo) to the traditional (shredded beef). $3 beers are served at happy hour - for a non-alcoholic alternative, try the phenomenal cafe de leche. (Arepas Cafe: 33-07 36th Ave., 718-937-3835.)

Sweets News

• What's better than a coffee shop that uses locally roasted, premium coffee beans? One that also serves homemade Italian ices! The cheery Cup on Norman, which opened a month ago in Greenpoint, serves orange, lemon and strawberry ices alongside a selection of coffee drinks made from Brooklyn's Kitten Coffee beans. And if you're especially lucky, you'll visit on a day when the blueberry butter cake (baked by the owner's mother) is in stock. (Cup on Norman, Norman St. between Lorimer & Manhattan Ave., Brooklyn, cuponnorman@gmail.com.)

• Chef Yoshie Shirakawa of Dessert Cafe Luxee was a finalist for the 2009 Golden Scoop Award -Almond Board of California Best Dessert Menu. Now you can learn to make green tea chiffon cake and choux a la creme just like her! She'll be teaching two French pastry classes at the cafe on July 12 and 26 - you can take the dessert home when you're finished with the lesson. For reservations, please call (212) 375-1796. (Dessert Cafe Luxee: 6 Clinton St.)
  

Lunch Under $5

It's time for another edition of "Lunch Under $5!" (Not including tax.)

• Lox Spread on an Everything Bagel: Daniel's Bagels, one of my favorite bagel shops, offers both plain and whole-wheat "everything bagels." A generous lox spread sandwich (ask for tomato, and you'll have all four food groups) costs $4.95 - if you want chopped herring or egg salad instead, expect to shell out only $4. (Daniel's Bagels: 569 Third Ave., 212-972-9733.)
  

• Two Slices of Artisanal Margherita Pizza: Golosi Artisan Pizza & Gelato, which opened just a few months ago, uses high-quality extra-virgin olive oil in its pizza. Two slices of tomato-basil-mozzarella will set you back $4.98. If you're satisfied with just one slice, order the Parma (tomato-mozzarella-prosciutto-arugula) for $4.50. (Golosi Artisan Pizza & Gelato: 125 Park Ave., 212-922-1169.)

• Seared Pork-Chive Dumplings: If you're in search of a lighter lunch, grab a six-pack of handmade dumplings at Dumpling Man. You can get them steamed or seared, with pork, chicken, veggies or shrimp - all for under $5, with the exception of seared shrimp. If you order the $3.95 steamed pork-chive dumplings, you'll still have enough room in your five-dollar bill to add a $1 sweet banana dumpling for dessert. (Dumpling Man: 100 St. Marks Place, 212-505-2121.)
  

Flavors of Chile: A Special Prix-Fixe at Centrico

Although the Fancy Food Show is not open to the public, one of its exhibitors - the country of Chile - has partnered with chefs Aaron Sanchez and Ryan Butler to spread the word about the unique ingredients it produces. Known for its wine, Chile also farms salmon and exports olive oil. The country is also home to interesting fruits like the murtilla (myrtle berry) and the carica.

From June 22-July 3, Centrico Restaurant is featuring a four-course menu of salmon ceviche with Chilean habaneros and murtillas, king crab tostadas spiked with smoky dried chilis, spicy strip loin on a bed of cactus and fingerling potatoes, and a delicious cake of fruity Chilean olive oil and cornmeal. I had the opportunity to preview this meal, and I especially enjoyed the goat milk dulce de leche and Chilean honey ice cream that accompanied the cake. The prix-fixe is priced at a very reasonable $35.

Flavors of Chile at Centrico: 211 West Broadway, (212) 431-0700. For more information about Chilean ingredients, visit www.prochile.us/centrico.

Pepe Verde To Go

I'm something of a pesto purist. So I'm always disappointed when I order a pasta al pesto and it arrives in a barely green, cream-laden sauce. Last week I had lunch at a restaurant (which shall remain nameless) where the "pesto" was a creamy tomato sauce with a few pathetic sprigs of dried basil. So, on my visit to Pepe Verde a few days later, I went up to the counter to inquire about the spaghetti with pesto sauce. "Do you serve real pesto?" I wanted to know.

A man who looked like an Italian Eugene Levy gave me a long look.

"Don't insult me," he said.

I guess it was the wrong question.

"Um, I was just making sure, because last week, I..."

"I've been here 11 years! Do you see all the signs on the wall?" The man pointed to the entrance.

There were indeed many framed newspaper articles at the front of the tiny, rustic room. "OK," I said, "I'll order the spaghetti with pesto sauce." (It was less than $10, like almost all of the pasta dishes - penne alla vodka with pancetta, fusilli puttanesca, rigatoni bolognese, penne arrabbiata.) When the substantial bowl of spaghetti arrived, the noodles were coated with a sauce which was deep green with basil and fragrant olive oil. No heavy cream or tomato paste!

Pepe Verde To Go: 559 Hudson St., (212) 255-2221.

Le Relais de Venise "L'Entrecôte"

You've got to love a restaurant that has one main course and a dozen desserts -not to give the main course short shrift, of course! Le Relais de Venise "L'Entrecôte", the newest outpost of a famous Parisian steakhouse, is now serving steak frites in NYC at a recession-friendly price of $24. For that price, you receive: some hunks of baguette (no butter - according to the server, the secret way to get butter is to order the cheese plate, which I did -but more on that later); a green salad with walnuts, its leaves well-coated with creamy mustard vinaigrette; and a plate of thickly sliced steak cooked according to your specifications (blue, rare, medium, well) drenched in a delicious "special" sauce (I thought I detected tarragon, wine and mustard, but the sauce is a well-kept secret) with a heap of short, crisp golden fries. If you find your plate too dainty, don't despair - your server will return mid-meal to deliver another portion of steak and fries!

Now for dessert. The wonderfully balanced cheese plate comes from Artisanal; the night I went, it consisted of camembert, gorgonzola, comte and goat cheese. There are also oodles of sweets - profiteroles, cherry tarts, peach Melba, sorbets, and desserts made with meringue or praline. I went with the moist chocolate-almond cake, which was garnished with a rosette of vanilla whipped cream.

If you hanker for a giant T-bone, this might not be the steakhouse for you. However, if you want a steak dinner that's both elegant and economical at the same time, head over to Le Relais de Venise before the lines start forming.

Le Relais de Venise "L'Entrecôte": 590 Lexington Ave., (212) 758-3989. No reservations.

Woorijip

Nestled among the barbecue houses of Koreatown is a great place for a quick, cheap meal: Woorijip. This small grocery-buffet offers many items which fit the bill for my Lunch Under $5 category. I stopped in the other night and came away with seaweed soup that tasted like the ocean, tricolor rice cakes, zucchini pancakes, glutinous rice with sweet red beans, delicious soy-boiled eggs, and a broiled eel bowl. Many other dishes caught my eye - a $5.50 plate of pork belly slices, a $3.50 bowl of kimchi fried rice topped with an egg, abalone porridge, and fried smelts. Not everything seemed appealing - ham and cheese sushi, anyone? But with such a large selection of low-priced dishes, I could buy and try to my heart's content. Everyone else seemed to have the same idea; their take-out bags and tables were stacked with containers.

Woorijip: 12 West 32nd St., (212) 244-1115. No rice cakes on Saturdays.

Bento Night

NYC is home to the French Culinary Institute, the Italian Culinary Academy, and as of this past April, the Japanese Culinary Center (711 3rd Avenue). The latter is holding an introduction to the Japanese bento box on Tuesday, June 30, from 7-9 pm. A variety of sakes will accompany the rice, fish, meat, dumplings, vegetables, pickles and dessert.
(To reserve a seat, E-mail japaneseculinarycenter.nyc@gmail.com.)

Sweets News - Father's Day Edition

Here are some sweet gifts for Dad!

• If Dad is a baseball fan, he knows that the Yankees and Mets are duking it out from June 11-14 and June 25 -28. Help him show his allegiance with some Yankees or Mets yellow cake cookies from Zaro's Bread Basket in Grand Central Terminal. (Available only during the Subway Series)
  

• Kyotofu is offering a "Cheers to Dad!" assortment of three types of artisanal Japanese beer (white ale, red rice ale, and ginger beer) and special sweets.
  

Cooking 101: The Course For Absolute Beginners

My private cooking lesson with Bettina Fisher whetted my appetite, so I enrolled myself in ICE's Cooking 101 (The Institute of Culinary Education: 50 West 23rd St.). This past Saturday, I attended the first of three sessions. Along with 13 other beginners, I donned an apron, filled my coffee cup and sat down at a table to listen to Chef Jane's colorful introduction. At our first class, which would mostly involve arrangement and presentation, we would be preparing shrimp cocktail, tomato mozzarella salad, guacamole, prosciutto-wrapped melon, a Mediterranean salad plate, a smoked salmon plate, and chocolate-dipped fruit. (Of course, we would be eating all of this at the end of the lesson!)

But first, Chef Jane passed around various herbs (parsley, thyme, basil, cilantro and dill) for us to become familiar with. She talked about knives, cutting boards, and bowls, and then gave us important advice about knife safety (apparently, an unfortunate assistant was once stabbed in the arm by a careless student!) and kitchen hygiene. She gave us an detailed rundown about the recipes we'd be preparing - here is how we would peel and devein a shrimp, here was an attractive way to cut an avocado, and chocolate buttons were always preferable to chocolate chips when melting in a bain-marie.

The lecture lasted about an hour. After a brief demonstration of basic knife skills and vinaigrette preparation, the class was divided into three teams, each of which would each prepare two different items. My team was responsible for the tomato mozzarella salad and guacamole (I was responsible for the unevenly-cut mozzarella).

The class worked quickly, and soon it was time for the unveiling of our finished masterpieces. Chef Jane pronounced the smoked salmon plate "one of the most attractive examples I've seen in this class." My team's guacamole was especially delicious, if I do say so myself! I was a bit envious that I didn't get to devein the bouillon-poached shrimp, but we were all given recipe booklets so that we can duplicate the dishes at home.

In the next two lessons, we'll be grilling burgers, making blueberry crisps and chocolate pudding cakes, roasting tomatoes for pasta, even making Parmesan frico on a Silpat. But I have a feeling that I will need much more instruction in order to really learn to cook; I suspect I'll need to enroll in the 5-lesson TECH 1 (and TECH 2, and TECH 3)...

Num Pang Sandwich Shop

Last night, a friend and I were searching for a cheap and delicious dinner. We were thrilled to discover that Kampuchea's amazing sandwiches can be found for $5 less at Num Pang Sandwich Shop (its sister restaurant). Why this is, I don't know... maybe it's because the menu is much less extensive. At any rate, I sunk my teeth into a special grilled Spanish mackerel sandwich ($7.75). The substantial, meaty fillet spilled out of the spicy-mayo-slathered, toasted roll, which was layered with the customary cilantro sprigs, shredded carrots and sliced cucumbers. My friend devoured his pulled duroc pork with spiced honey. "Good call!" he said. (And then, our wallets emptied of less than $10, we made our way over to Momofuku Milk Bar for some chocolate-mint soft serve.)

Num Pang Sandwich Shop: 21 East 12th St., (212) 255.3271.

Around The World in Seven Days, Part I: A Week in Astoria

My companion and I haven't lived in Astoria for very long, but we've already eaten our way around the globe! Here are some preliminary impressions, organized by country. (Of course, our journey is not over; there are many countries left to visit!)

1. Afghanistan: Balkh Shish Kabab House. The fried scallion turnovers (bolanee gandana) at Balkh will neutralize any craving for those leaden scallion pancakes found at Chinese restaurants. But my companion was disappointed in the tough lamb kebab; the salmon was much better. The rice was nondescript but the basket of thick, dense bread was satisfying. (23-10 31st St., 718-721-5020.)

2. Colombia: Botero's Cafe. The walls of this small cafe are decorated with prints of the painter's famous Rubenesque muses. After spending a little time here, I might become a muse myself. Arepas, or grilled corn pancakes, are served with melted tropical cheese, or avocados and shrimp, or "ahogado" (drowned in sauce), and the tostones are perfectly fried. (45-01 Ditmars Blvd., I can't find the number!)

3. Greece: Taverna Kyclades (also, see Elias Corner). An appetizer at Kyclades is enough for around 47 people (I'm exaggerating, but you get the drift). The fried calamari, the skordalia, and the grilled salmon steak are enough to send me over the moon, and I think I've never eaten better fried fish. (33-07 Ditmars Blvd., 718-545-8666.)

4. Italy: Michael Angelo's II Pizzeria & Restaurant (also, see Trattoria L'Incontro). I like my pizza with a thin crust, so someone recommended that I order the "Sofia Loren" pie. It was loaded with pools of melted fresh mozzarella and sliced fresh tomatoes, I only wish I'd eaten it in-house instead of having it delivered, because I think the crisp crust got a little steamed inside the pizza box. (29-11 23rd Ave., 718-932-2096).

5. Japan: Linn Restaurant. What a pleasant surprise: sparkling sushi on Broadway! It's certainly not cheap, but if you're craving Alaskan salmon roe, Japanese striped yellowtail, or even something like a fried oyster roll with wasabi mayo, you've got it all right here. A wall has been erected inside to obscure the C-Town across the street and to show Japanese movies. (29-13 Broadway, 718-204-0060.)

6. Morocco (well, Moroccan-influenced): Cafe Soleil. Every neighborhood should have one of these cozy hangouts with mismatched chairs and free Wi-Fi. Authentic Moroccan mint tea is served from beautiful silver teapots, and did I detect a bit of harissa in the potato pancake that came with my "classic French" omelette? (37-14 Astoria Blvd., 718-777-1015.)

7. Thailand: WAVEThai. I'm not going to enter the fray that is the apparent rivalry between WAVEThai and Thai Elephant, but suffice it to say that WAVEThai's "street noodles" (pad see ew) are addictive. You can order them with chicken or veggie chicken, beef, roast duck or veggie duck, squid, shrimp, tofu, scallop, or mixed seafood. The vegetarian duck's texture is meaty, chewy and substantial instead of thin and flimsy. Curries are nice and spicy. (21-37 31st St., 718-777-6789.)

Colson Patisserie

It hasn't taken long for the subway platforms to heat up, even though the weather has warmed only recently. The other day, I stepped off of the Park Slope F train, craving refreshment. Fortunately, a cool drink and a cup of gelato were only a block away. Colson Patisserie, which is known for scones and muffins which are wholesaled to cafes around the city (Cafe Grumpy is one), also makes its own gelato, sorbet and iced tea. The iced tea comes in mint, blood orange, pear, ceylon, chai, and pineapple papaya varieties, and the other day there was a special lemon-myrtle mint. As for gelato and sorbet, there are flavors like balsamic strawberry and brownie; the delicious Italian espresso dessert known as affogato is offered with a scoop of vanilla.

Colson Patisserie: 374 9th St., Brooklyn, (718) 965-6400.

The Perfect Coffeemaker for New Yorkers, Part 2

Back in 2004, I traded in my Saeco Vienna Deluxe grinder/coffeemaker for the Nespresso D290, which is a convenient, capsule-based machine. A month ago, my Nespresso went on the fritz. My companion and I were in the middle of moving five years' worth of belongings to our new apartment, and we didn't have time to send in the old machine for repairs.

We settled into the new place, but the kitchen counter was bare and forlorn without a coffeemaker. I called Nespresso and was told that a repair would cost $135. I wondered if the money might not be better spent on an upgrade, and I started browsing Amazon.com. Somehow I happened upon the Lattissima: a one-touch DeLonghi machine that uses Nespresso capsules to make latte macchiatos, espressos, lungos and cappuccinos. Strangely, the red version was $300 less than the chrome model, and over $200 less than the black one. The chrome model featured a cup warmer, but the black model was identical to the red one. Was this too good to be true?

I had to find out, so I cancelled my D290 repair and splurged on the red model, for which Amazon provided free shipping. I received the machine today, and was instantly enthralled by it. After a brief rinsing, I filled the milk container (the pamphlet recommended part-skim or skim, but whole milk worked just as well), set it to produce the maximum amount of foam, placed a coffee capsule up top, put a tall glass underneath the spout, and pushed "latte macchiato." Soon, a beautiful, foamy beverage was prepared with the least amount of human effort. (I've never been able to produce satisfactory foam except with my Aeroccino, and I always worry about getting its electric base wet). Some of the Amazon customer reviews were critical about the temperature of the coffee, but I definitely found it hot enough.

Now, our new apartment feels like home.

May 2009 Foodie Events

Here are a couple delicious tidbits from the Salli Vates inbox:

• On May 18 from 3-6 p.m., Grand Central Market will celebrate the beginning of grilling season at Grand Central Market. The special tastings will feature all of the hall's delights, including Murray's Cheese, Wild Edibles and Ceriello Fine Foods. (Grand Central Market: Lexington Ave at 42nd St.) (ETA: If you missed this event, with all of its samples - Murray's halloumi cheese grilled with olive oil and lemon, Pescatore's grilled shrimp, Ceriello's spicy sopressata, and Murray's Salami Farmer's Diner hot dogs served with ketchup and jalapeno sauerkraut - the fun is still not over. Through the 24th, many picnic and grill products are on sale at the market. Buy two filet mignon kebabs at Ceriello and get one free (the same goes for swordfish kebabs at Pescatore), pick up some of that halloumi ($2 off), and finish your meal with a pound of Li-Lac Chocolate's smores bars ($4 off).)
  

• May 18 is also the first day of "Riesling Week 2009." coming to New York from May 18 -24. Riesling tastings, flights and pairings can be enjoyed at restaurants all over the city; some participants are 15 East, Aquavit and Hearth. You can find a full list of restaurants here. (There's a fun interactive food-and-wine pairer on the Website.)

• On the following day, May 19, Dish du Jour Magazine will hold its 8th Annual Food & Wine Tasting Event at Astoria World Manor (25-22 Astoria Blvd.). Highlights will include a "best meatballs showdown." To purchase tickets, call (718) 777-7918.
  

Elias Corner

My companion and finally heeded the siren call of Astoria and all of its culinary riches - we moved there. I spent the past few days stocking up the fridge with taramosalata and tzatziki from Mediterranean Foods (23-18 31st St., 718-721-0221), skordalia from Angelo's Food Emporium (31-27 Ditmars Blvd., 718-278-0705), and still-warm, freshly made mozzarella from Rosario's Deli (22-55 31st St., 718-728-2920). Then, it was time to celebrate our move in an appropriately bacchanalian way; we headed over to the legendary Elias Corner.

Were it not for the elevated train, one would think this was a seaside restaurant. A display of glistening fish and shellfish is the focal point of the entrance, and the dining room is painted a nautical blue. We sat down to a giant loaf of sesame bread and a plate of olive oil, and listened to our waitress rattle off the menu (there is no printed menu). Did we want jumbo shrimp, porgy, red snapper, Chilean sea bass, striped sea bass, branzini, wild salmon, soft-shell crabs? Grilled or fried? Oh, and appetizers? Saganaki, fried calamari, Greek salad? How about sides? Fried potatoes, broccoli, lemon potatoes...

To start, we ordered the saganaki, a large brick of slightly melted, firm cheese enveloped in a thin, crispy crust. We liberally squeezed it with lemon and soon there was none left. We also devoured a tomato-heavy Greek salad, which was sprinkled with plenty of feta. Then it was time for the main event: the fish.

"I think this is the best fish I've ever had," said my companion. digging into an herb-sprinkled Chilean sea bass steak. Wordlessly, I agreed, my mouth full of sweet, mild branzini (I'd ordered it whole so I could enjoy the grilled skin). There was no way we could even attempt to eat the lemon potatoes in their bath of warm olive oil, and we had to have them wrapped up.

Sighing with satisfaction, we paid the check - and then walked over to Artopolis Bakery (but that's a subject for another post).

Elias Corner: 24-02 31st St., Astoria, (718) 932-1510.

Kambi Ramen House

If I'd known about the sheer volume of noodles in a Kambi ramen bowl, I would've foregone the shredded pork and chive dumplings with gingery dipping sauce, the whole shrimp in glutinous rice wrappers, the perfectly chilled tofu topped with heaps of bonito flakes and scallions, and the refreshing julienned daikon flavored with sesame and soy. Well, now that I think about it, I'm glad I ordered all of the above, in addition to my basic pork ramen. But the thin yellow noodles (you can also order thick, wavy, whole wheat or bean) in a garlicky golden broth were definitely the highlight of the meal. Two rounds of sake-stewed pork, so tender that they fell apart at their swirls of succulent fat when I just touched them with a chopstick, lay atop the mound of noodles. The bowl also contained thinly sliced bamboo shoots and a bit of seaweed. This might not be a popular opinion, but I enjoyed the ramen more than at Ippudo; Kambi was more generous with the noodles, and the pork slices were more substantial.

(If you visit Kambi and somehow have an appetite for dessert, the hottest bakery in the East Village is the nearby Momofuku Milk Bar. I wish this place weren't so darn tempting - last night I came away with a glass of wild strawberry milk, a chocolate donut soft serve ice cream cone, corn cookies, blueberry cream cookies, and an incredible slice of banana cake layered with salty hazelnut crunch and banana cream. Why, oh why.)

Kambi Ramen House: 351 East 14th St., (212) 228-1266.

Lunch Under $5

Opinions are divided on when the recession will end. So, until it does, I've decided to initiate a new post category: "Lunch Under $5." Here are my latest finds. (Note: some of these restaurants have more than one location, but I've only included the location I visited.)

• Fried Whitefish Sandwich: This hefty filet, topped with cheese and lettuce and served on a soft mayo-spread bun, will set you back $3.75. (Cafe Zaiya: 18 East 41st St., 212-779-0600.)
  

• 1/2 Lb. Cornmeal Crostata: A big wedge of this savory crostata comes in two flavors - ham, cheddar and Parmesan or zucchini and feta - and costs only $4.75 (Dishes At Home: Grand Central Market, 212-370-5511.)

• Rice Plate: Of the 30 rice plates at Great N.Y. Noodletown, only nine are over $5. My friend proclaimed the $4 soy-poached chicken "the best he's ever had." Also available are roast duck (How much is that ducky in the window? $4) and curry beef stew ($4.25). (Great N.Y. Noodletown: 28 1/2 Bowery, 212-349-0923.)
  

Melt Gelato & Crepe Cafe

Just in time for this summery weather, there's a new gelato shop. Melt's official opening is tomorrow, but tonight they are giving out free crepes and gelato (that's why there is such a crowd on 2nd Avenue between 55th and 56th, in case you were wondering). The coconut gelato is much too sweet for my taste, but the chocolate is good, if more on the milk chocolate end of the spectrum than the dark. There's also a fat-free mango flavor as well as raspberry and hazelnut.

Melt: 1053 2nd Ave., (646) 329-6445,

Sweets News

• Although we must say a sad goodbye to the Amai Tea & Bake House, we can say hello again to the Chocolate Bar (19 8th Ave., 212-367-7181) which is reopening on April 28 after relocating from the East Village. Executive Chef Gustaf Mabrouk will create new chocolate confections, including plain, raspberry and espresso Mallomars. (Now, if only someone could convince Chocolat Michel Cluizel to reopen...)

• Free brownie sundaes will be given out on Wednesday, April 22, and Thursday, April 24! The ice cream is from Ben & Jerry's, and the brownies are from Greyston Bakery. On Wednesday, be at Whole Foods Tribeca (270 Greenwich St.) between 12:30-2 pm, or Whole Foods Bowery (95 East Houston St between 4:30-5:30 pm. On Thursday, April 23, go to Whole Foods Union Square (4 Union Square South) between 12:30-2:00 pm.
  
  
  
  

Luxee Dessert Cafe

Lately, it seems like I'm on Clinton Street all the time. The tapas at 1492 Food, four-cheese pizza at San Marzano, and tomato-mozzarella tarts at Falai Panetteria keep me coming back for more. And now I have yet another scrumptious reason to visit Clinton Street: the sweet-savory Parmesan souffle at Luxee. This towering, sugar-dusted, eggy dessert is already impressive; a tableside grating of cheese over the top renders it irresistible. The souffle is served with a scoop of vanilla ice cream and a little bowl of hazelnut brickle.

There are many other treats for the adventurous sweets lover: green forest parfait of avocado and chocolate; a Mont Blanc with the surprising addition of tomato-rose jam; chocolate and star anise cake; and rose macarons. Different teas are recommended for each dessert - my souffle was paired with chamomile.

Luxee Dessert Cafe: 6 Clinton St., (212) 375-1796.

Lunch at Atria (CLOSED as of 5/09)

Restaurant Week may be over, but there are still some great deals to be had - especially for lunch. A friend and I are new fans of Atria's $27 three-course prix fixe.

Atria was partially fashioned from a landmarked Rockefeller townhouse, which was built in the early 1900's. After we waited in the sedate, low-ceilinged bar, we were surprised by the restaurant's breathtakingly modern dining room. A dramatic eight-story glass wall led up to a skylight. Rotating hanging sculptures, created from "found objects" in Brooklyn, evoked a sort of abstract planetarium. (According to our host, Paul, the view is even more impressive at night.) Apparently, the dining room was once a courtyard.

The stylishly plated French cuisine transfixed us as much as the decor. I was reminded of that much-missed favorite, Fleur De Sel. For an appetizer, I ordered a pale yellow fantasy of gnocchi with a delicate quail egg, Parmesan foam and a Parmesan tuile. My friend's matboucha, a traditional Moroccan dish, was a napoleon of tangy tomato, peppered ricotta and eggplant.

Feeling festive, I drained my glass of 100% Verdejo wine and then dug into my main course. The meaty fillet of lightly-browned hake benefited from a creamy cauliflower puree and tender heirloom vegetables. Frizzled chervil and leeks provided a tasty crunch. My friend's dish was more assertive but equally delicious. Crunchy-skinned roasted chicken with Brussels sprouts was served in a rich brown peppery jus over a bed of riebele, or grated German pasta. (Paul said that a fresh batch of this pasta is made every day.)

I was almost disappointed when dessert arrived, because our afternoon would soon be over. Chocolate mousse was a good choice for savoring slowly. It arrived with pink peppercorn whipped cream and strip of grapefruit gelee. The dessert summed up the whole delightful experience of Atria - tradition with a modern spark.

Atria: 13-15 West 54th St., (212) 315-9516.

Sweets News

To preface this edition of Sweets News, I must say how much I regret the closing of P*ong.

• April showers bring... macarons. To celebrate Spring, Tafu NYC (CLOSED 2009) as created a line of macarons in Japanese flavors like black sesame and matcha. They are $2.50 each.

• Are you feeling creative? Try to brainstorm Dunkin Donuts' newest flavor, and if your suggestion is chosen, you'll win a $12,000 prize! The deadline is April 7.

• Alexandra Leaf of Chocolate Tours NYC (isn't this wonderful?) will lead a chocolate factory tour on April 25 at 12:30 pm. To register, visit the ICE Website. (Apparently, it is recommended that you eat lunch beforehand, so as not to experience an insane sugar spike.)
  

Andy's Seafood & Grill

Forest Hillsers know how hard it is to score a table at East Ocean Palace, a popular Chinese restaurant with large fish tanks. As of this week, there's an alternative in nearby Rego Park, and what an alternative it is! Andy's Seafood Kitchen is a new Taiwanese/Szechuanese place on Queens Boulevard, and its menu boasts every imaginable treat from the sea. Are you craving sea cucumber? Have some in brown sauce, or with abalone. What about conch? It's served with chives, or with fried bean curd. Snails in black bean sauce, Taiwanese cuttlefish soup, fried baby oysters, squid with scallion and ginger, sauteed crab with vermicelli or black bean sauce... the list goes on and on. I stopped in today for the delectable sliced flounder in hot chili sauce - it was served in a bubbling broth, which was fragrant with cilantro, scallions, sesame oil and ginger.

Andy's has something for everyone. For the fan of Chinese-American food, there are scallion pancakes and sweet-and-sour pork. For the more adventurous, there are salt and pepper frogs' legs. And for those of us who are trying to conserve cash (and that's a lot of us these days) there is the already-legendary "Dollar Menu" (Monday-Friday, 11 am-4 pm). Served from a steam table, this menu includes Peking duck, crispy whole shrimps, pepper steak, and much more. Andy (yes, there really is an Andy), rounds up the items of your choice, and gracefully places them upon your plate - no messy communal buffet here!

Please visit Andy's, but leave me a table. I have a lot more eating to do here.

Andy's Seafood Kitchen: 95-26 Queens Blvd., Rego Park, (718) 275-2388.

A Eulogy, in Restaurants

Next week, I'll back to my regularly scheduled restaurant review, but in this post I wanted to pay homage to one of my favorite dining partners: my vivacious grandmother, who just passed away on Thursday at 91 (1917-2009). She is referenced in various posts on this blog.
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Grandma was always happiest when everyone was eating, although she would tell you that she herself ate like a bird. We painted the town red, going to Payard for tea, Sant Ambroeus for lunch, and Teodora for dinner. We hit all the hot spots; last year, my companion and I took her to Quality Meats. We were regulars at Elio’s; this was one of Grandma’s favorite restaurants, because she used to go there with my late grandfather. But no matter where we went, she would always ask, “What are you having? That's all? No appetizer, no salad? Are you enjoying your food?” (She would also mention that Grandpa would have liked what I was eating. He liked to read menus and eat exotic foods just like me.)

I discovered a lot of new foods in Grandma’s kitchen. She introduced me to egg barley, and she made all the Hungarian specialties like nockerl and kaposzta teszta. Grandpa would have all the ingredients for homemade fountain sodas in the fridge, and there was always lots of candy on the coffee table, so their apartment was really a great place for a kid.

As Grandma grew older, she wasn’t as able to cook, so we’d go out to Our Place on 3rd Avenue. One memorable night, we went there with my aunt, my father, and my brother. It was a rather challenging evening; we were all arguing with each other. My aunt had sent her food back twice, and the cook had put peppers in Grandma’s main dish (my aunt wanted to try it but had an allergy to peppers). I had to leave the table and take a deep breath. When I returned, it was time to open the fortune cookies, and Grandma’s said: “Your family is one of nature’s masterpieces.” We all burst out laughing.

Grandma lived through many ups and downs, surgeries, and the passing of my grandfather, whom she was always thinking about. But through it all, she maintained the most positive attitude - even after falling and breaking her arm in three places while in her mid-80's. It really didn’t take her long to recover; soon we were going out to the movies and Etats-Unis.

She appreciated every little thing, an iced coffee, a birthday card, her egg poacher, the smoked fish from Sable's, a short phone call, and the apricot cake from Andre’s Hungarian that I brought her this past Sunday - the last day I saw her.

Rest in peace, Grandma, and I hope there are some good restaurants in heaven.

Inakaya

Having not read much about Inakaya other than that it was a Japanese grill, I was utterly unprepared for the synchronized shouting and dancing of its cooks and servers. "Did we just walk into Cold Stone Creamery?" I asked my companion. Uniformed men cried out as they pounded mochi into submission, waiters loudly chanted orders, and there was an eruption of "Irrashaimase!" whenever a customer entered the restaurant.

The experience was rather jarring, which was a shame, because many of the grilled items were quite good. We sat at the counter, where baskets of fresh vegetables, meats and fish were laid out in a row. The cooks would pluck out our choice, cook it and deliver it on a long wooden plank. When the gummy taro potatoes ran out, they were replaced by golden-fleshed Japanese sweet potatoes served with a smear of sweet butter. We also enjoyed meaty grilled yellowtail filets in both teriyaki and sea salt preparations, and tsukune (chicken meatball skewers) in tare sauce. The grilled scallop was disappointingly bland, although attractively presented in a shell. (Our budgets did not allow for the $67 deep sea snapper.)

The cold dish menu included maguro natto (one of my favorite dishes); the raw tuna was sliced instead of cubed. (There was no maguro yamakake on the menu, although plain grated yam cake could be ordered.) There was also a sizeable sushi menu, which we didn't take advantage of.

It is this humble blogger's opinion that Inakaya might benefit from a menu apart from the a la carte, especially in this economic climate. Soup, rice, or salad could be included with a main course- it gets expensive when you are ordering four chunks of potato for $7, or a $9 skewer of mushrooms. And perhaps the theatrics could be toned down a bit.

Inakaya: 231 West 40th St., (212) 354-2195.

1492 Food

Do you ever walk by a restaurant, make a mental note to dine there someday, and then promptly forget the name? That's what I did, and after a Google search for "that tapas place on Clinton," I met a friend at Tapeo 29.

But I'd meant to go to 1492 Food. (Nothing against Tapeo 29, although it was rather noisy.) So, after a slightly uncomfortable exchange with the host, we exited, and walked down the block towards the restaurant that existed in both my memory and, fortunately, reality.

We loved the place from the first sip of sangria (red for us, but the restaurant also serves white). The waiter brought us a basket of fresh-baked Spanish bread. We were surprised to find that the accompanying condiment was not butter, but garlicky aioli. It was gone in about two seconds.

Although the chorizo lollipops and bacon-wrapped dates called to us, we were trying to eat light, as it was rather late. We began with soup. The special was a sort of zarzuela; it was packed with tender calamari, mussels and shrimp. The other soup was lentil, a nourishing rendition made with diced carrots. "The lentils are perfect; when they're overcooked, they get starchy," remarked my friend.

After the soup, we polished off the escalivada, a plate of dainty grilled veggies (artichokes, red peppers, tomatoes, eggplant) finished off with truffle oil. (Healthy, yes, but delicious!) Our last course was a plate of hearty porcini croquettes. Crunchy on the outside and creamy within, they were served with small dollops of mushroom mayonnaise. The bread came in very handy here.

Once the dessert menu arrived, I realized that our attempt at light eating was about to fall by the wayside. After being tempted by the chocolate molten lava cake, we ended up with the rich, dense chestnut cake (tarta de marrones). It was totally irresistible with its caramel topping and a side of fresh whipped cream.

After a couple of excellent cortados, we agreed to return for the 2-for-1 drink special, which is offered every Sunday, Monday and Tuesday. (Now that the name of the restaurant is established firmly in my memory, it should be easier to come back!)

1492 Food: 60 Clinton St., (646) 654-1114.

Taro Sushi

I haven't yet made it to Brooklyn's new Kappa Sake House or Zuzu Ramen (well, the latter isn't open until Tuesday, March 10 - it will offer novelties like green curry ramen as well as sake and beer). But I always enjoy the sake and sushi at Taro Sushi. I was first introduced to this Japanese gem by a Park Slope family whom I'll call The Olives. The Olives have two little girls who are rapidly broadening their palates at Taro. Tonight, they feasted on inside-out California rolls and shrimp tempura maki topped with rainbows of avocado and smoked salmon. But when one of the girls clamored for an item not on the menu (a bowl of plain tofu cubes), the waiter happily obliged.

I started my meal with a dish of chopped toro tartare, raw quail egg and lots of wasabi, and continued with two preparations of freshwater eel: plain with sea salt, and lightly sauced. Then I savored some yellowtail belly topped a white onion sauce, and an assertive mackerel slice. All of the fish was outstandingly fresh and presented with care.

But there was more than just sushi on the menu. The hot appetizer selection included such delicacies as simmered pork ribs and miso-cooked pork stomach. Mama Olive craved noodles, so she devoured a bowl of hot soba with spinach, seaweed and scallions. (I think she'll probably bring the Olive girls to Zuzu when it opens.)

Diners of all ages will enjoy Taro Sushi.

Taro Sushi: 446 Dean St., Brooklyn, (718) 398-0872.

Barnyard Cheese, Meats & Fine Foods

Gougeres are like potato chips; I can never eat just one. The addictive cheese puffs have stopped me from finishing many a meal at Benoit or Artisanal. But now I can stock up on these savory treats without making a dinner reservation; they're available by the bagful at Barnyard. This gourmet market sells all of my favorite things. Cheeses include Pleasant Ridge, Pecorino Toscano, Garrotxa, and chevre noir; co-owner Darren is generous with the samples. For charcuterie, there's Serrano ham and pancetta. The refrigerator is full of goodies like pesto, uncured duck sausage and duck bacon. The pantry abounds with sauces from Il Mulino and Rosa Mexicano, as well as condiments like Maldon sea salt. If you visit, don't forget to pick up a bag of those Taza organic cocoa nibs by the cash register!

Barnyard: 149 Avenue C, (212) 674-BARN. Daily sandwich specials.

Sweets News - Greenpoint and Williamsburg

• Cookie lovers in Greenpoint have been anxiously awaiting the opening of psychedelic-themed Cookie Road. The shop, which will serve Counter Culture coffee and an assortment of co-owner Aneta Szot's cookies, cakes and tarts (there's even a Liza Minnelli cookie), will be holding a meet-and-greet on Tuesday, March 3. Because the Department of Buildings has not yet issued the proper permits, no pastries will be on hand, but there will be free coffee! (Cookie Road: 94 Franklin St., Greenpoint, 718-383-8094.)
  

• Three-month-old Whisk, a delightful kitchen appliance store, contains a hidden surprise for the home baker. In the very center of the store, there's a tiny pantry stocked with edible glitter, turbinado, fondant and muscovado sugars, nonpareils, jimmies, and lots of other items to make a beautiful sweet. (Whisk: 231 Bedford Ave., Williamsburg, 718-218-7230.)
  

• You might have read about Mast Brothers Chocolate, which recently opened its newest location in Williamsburg (it had previously moved from the brothers' apartment to a Greenpoint space which was closed to the public). The factory, which produces chocolate from the bean to the bar, offers a truly special "Salt & Pepper" bar - a 60% cacao, dark milk chocolate confection made with brown sugar, sea salt and black peppercorns. According to Michael Mast, a line of truffles and hot chocolates is in the making. (Mast Brothers Chocolate: 105A North 3rd St., Williamburg, 718-388-2625. Open on Saturdays and Sundays.)

Winter Dining Deals in the Hamptons

This past weekend, my companion and I were reading the New York Times while taking the LIRR to East Hampton (we are big fans of off-season travel). I opened to the Escapes section and coincidentally happened upon the "Hamptons Before The Crowds" article. It mentioned winter deals at several lodging options (but conspicuously omitted the Mill House Inn, which is where my companion and I like to stay... on this visit, we had a great rate on a suite with a king bed, flat-screen TV, Serenity air jacuzzi, flat-screen TV, dual-head shower, and, of course, that famous breakfast).

It just so happens that the winter dining deals in the Hamptons are just as impressive as the lodging deals! Prix-fixe menus under $30 abound, especially on weekdays. My companion and sampled three of them during our stay.

We were most impressed by the $25 (three courses, or two courses with a glass of wine) prix-fixe at the 1770 House (29 Newtown Lane, East Hampton, 631-324-6300). In this historic dining room, the menu is divided into "From The Sea" and "From The Farm" sections. We ordered the organic smoked salmon tartare with potato crisps, an heirloom beet salad sprinkled with candied walnuts, perfectly seared diver scallops, and fettucini with black truffles, trumpet mushrooms, peas and Parmesan - the fettucini with Maine lobster was not available. The molten chocolate souffle cake with chunky peanut butter gelato is a must-try!

Nick and Toni's (136 North Main St., East Hampton, 631-324-3550) serves a special $30 Film and Food menu, which includes a ticket to the movies! My companion went with the $35 prix-fixe, choosing a chopped radish and cucumber salad, skirt steak on a bed of white beans, and chocolate custard. I ordered the creamy fennel soup special, a wonderful rigatoni with cauliflower, breadcrumbs and hot chili, and the poached pear hazelnut crisp. The next evening, we found ourselves at Della Femina (99 North Main St., East Hampton, 631-329-6666), which is quite popular with wine lovers. Some nights feature a free glass of house red or white. A $25 prix-fixe is served Sunday through Thursday, while a $30 menu is served on Friday and from 5:30-6:30 on Saturdays. What I most remember from this evening, besides the copious amount of wine, is the flourless chocolate souffle cake (obviously, I can't get enough of this dessert).

Hamptons Restaurant Week is coming up (March 29-April 5), and the $24.95 menus look mighty enticing. If you decide to pay a visit to the East End, here's my lodging tip: make a reservation at the Mill House Inn (31 North Main St., East Hampton, 631-324-9766) and enjoy the Restaurant Week discounts: $25 off for one night, or a $50 per night discount on more than one night. (Super suites are discounted by $50 or $100.)

Patel Brothers

The weak economy has many of us turning towards comfort food. A dish of rice and beans is protein-packed, filling, and cheap. But did you know that it can also be... exciting? Walk down the vast aisles of Patel Brothers in Jackson Heights and you'll be amazed at all the varieties of rice and beans. The back wall holds a rainbow of orange, yellow, white, green, and brown lentils (urad? toor? masoor? chana? moong? I can't even keep track of them all). There are all kinds of grains - thin and thick flattened rice (poha), giant bags of rice, spicy flour rings, and puffed lotus seeds.

Endless condiments and spices line the shelves. Mango, lime, garlic pickles? Mint or onion chutney? (I think I'll have to bring a dictionary of Indian spices with me the next time I visit. How to use... amla? asafoetida?) There is also a fresh produce section, and a freezer packed with novelties like mint-chili "paneer poppers" and cashew-raisin ice cream. And if the spicy cornflakes in the breakfast aisle are just too adventurous for you, look past them; there's a box of... Cheerios.

Patel Brothers: 37-27 74th St., Jackson Heights, (718) 898-3445.

Sweets News

Today's items focus, unsurprisingly, on chocolate!

• Jacques Torres will be giving a talk and holding a chocolate tasting at the 92nd Street Y on Monday, March 16, at 8 pm. (On a recent visit to his Brooklyn store, I was told that all of the nut butters used in the chocolates are homemade. So we can indulge in Mr. Torres' chocolate/peanut-butter truffles without worry! My undying favorite will always be the cinnamon-praline...)

• In other Jacques Torres-related news, on Friday, February 13, Harrah's Resort Atlantic City will be handing out Jacques Torres chocolates (and 5,000 free overnight Waterfront Tower stays!) to celebrate Mr. Torres' new Atlantic City store, Temptations Fine Chocolate and Coffee. The promotion takes place from 8:00 -10:00am at the corner of 48th St. & 6th Ave., and from noon - 1:00pm at the Jacques Torres Hudson Store (350 Hudson St.).
  

• Have you left Valentine's Day gifts till the last minute? Junior's has the solution: a chocolate ganache-covered cheesecake, baked in the shape of a heart. Call 1-800-9-JUNIOR!
  

• In April, Francois Payard released a fantastic new cookbook: "Chocolate Epiphany." His store on Lexington Avenue is offering a free postcard with one of the most popular recipes from the cookbook: spicy chcolate pots de creme.

• Finally, I just have to put in a word about Grom's hazelnut hot chocolate - if you haven't been drinking it all winter, make this the week to discover it!

Onda

The news from the Financial District is not all grim; a mini-Restaurant Row is taking root on Front Street between Peck Slip and Beekman. The latest opening is that of 2 1/2-week-old Onda. With its strong drinks, light bossa soundtrack, and cuisine full of zest and spice, this pan-Latin place might take the edge off one's longing for a Caribbean vacation. (I am suffering from such a longing, but whenever I choose a specific travel date, the vacation price inexplicably doubles.)

The room evokes a poolside courtyard at a tropical resort. Mexican tiles adorn the banquettes, and dim aqua light shimmers from the lanterns reflecting off of the metallic epoxy floor. Last night, a friend and I sat at a corner table at the back of the room, admiring the scene.

Our server brought by a Havana-style mojito and a bourbon drink with orange liqueur. The mojito was chock-full of mint, not too sweet, and so deceptively strong that I had to pause after drinking about an inch of it. It was a good time to pause, because just then, a basket of warm Manchego flatbread and paprika-dusted garbanzo spread arrived.

"What shall we order?" I wondered. There were salads, ceviches, hot appetizers, fish, meat, a paella and several sides. Several dishes sported an Asian influence, as chef Raymond Mohan is inspired by Chinese-Peruvian cuisine - a snapper ceviche contained tapioca pearls, and there was a Chifa-style fish.

We decided on two ceviches, smoked duck flatbread, Chifa-style branzino, Lima-style chicken, "Spanish" fries and asparagus. We were completely unprepared for the sheer amount of food that soon graced our table - the portions were exceedingly generous! The hamachi tiradito was a plate of rich yellowtail sashimi slices, dotted with small pineapple chunks and drizzled with yuzu creme fraiche. Striped bass ceviche in citrus sauce, served in a transparent red dish, had a real jalapeno kick - the accompanying passionfruit sorbet soothed the bite. We were to find that many of the dishes were accented with tropical fruit, but the main ingredients were never overpowered by it.

The smoked duck flatbread was a sort of pizza. A long oval dough was smothered with earthy porcini spread and melted Manchego. Rosy pink duck slices lay atop the cheese, each one with a sherried cherry. (This dish is a good choice for those who shrink from spicy.)

We were already approaching fullness at this point, but the impressive main courses soon followed. When my whole grilled branzino first arrived, I worried that it would be overwhelmed by its soy broth, but this was not the case at all - the soy-ginger sauce was very light and not salty, and the fish was as flavorful as could be. It was topped with cilantro leaves, scallions and jalapenos.

At $18, the Lima-style chicken was a feast for a king - a crispy-skinned half-chicken came with a spicy red onion slaw ("These are my favorite flavors," remarked my friend, "red onion, cilantro and jalapenos." She had obviously come to the right place!). We were embarrassed by how little we could finish of the thin asparagus slices in spicy aioli and the formidable mountain of Spanish fries. For the latter, a fork was a must - Idiazabal cheese was melted all over the potatoes. There were also red onions and jalapenos over top, but I forked them aside in favor of the buttery cheese.

We didn't expect to order dessert after all of this, but it's funny how that happens. Soon we were diving into caramelized rum bananas in a crispy cookie shell, and Chinese spoons containing eggless basil ice cream sprinkled with salted almond praline, and a truly remarkable warm chocolate cake. (A spoonful of fruit was intended for mixing in with the cake, but the dessert was already perfect with its scoop of vanilla bean ice cream.)

A good cup of coffee is essential at any Latin American restaurant, and I was supplied with a smooth Essse espresso. Sipping contentedly, I looked at my friend and said, "All we need now is a hammock."

Onda Restaurant: 229 Front St., (212) 513-0770.

Falai Panetteria

Falai Panetteria, the most casual of Iacobo Falai's three restaurants, is well-known for pear-chocolate tarts, chocolate fondants, tiramisu and other desserts. But what I didn't know is that the place serves an outstanding veggie lasagna (I have yet to try the bolognese). Light on the cheese, but heavy on sauce bursting with vibrant tomato flavor and a variety of tender vegetables, it set me back only around $10 tonight. Of course, that wasn't the only thing my friend and I ordered...

...there was also a great spinach gnocchi covered with melted Parmesan and smothered in fresh pesto, and a plate of rare, herb-crusted tuna slices on bruschetta, which were also topped with marvelously sweet roasted cherry tomatoes. I also have to mention the generous basket of focaccia with which we sopped up every last bit of pesto. Not one dish crossed the $13 mark, so we felt free to order to our hearts' (and appetites') content.

We finished with a "black moon" dome filled with chocolate mousse and spiced cream on a biscuit base - a disc of white and dark chocolate adorned the top. I restrained myself from taking home some of the semolina tarts that I'd enjoyed on a previous visit, but I know I'll be back soon - to try the lasagna bolognese.

Falai Panetteria: 79 Clinton St., (212) 777-8956.

Salumeria Rosi

A crush of people filled the narrow entrance of Salumeria Rosi this afternoon. They were craning their necks to catch a glimpse of the counter, which displayed prosciutto bread, purple cauliflower salad and Taleggio cheese. It took me a minute to differentiate between the eat-in and take-out lines. Once I figured this out, it took many more minutes to actually be seated. I watched as two tables were set, one was reset, and a table of three was reseated at a table more to their liking. Finally, the host (whom I suspect was irritated with me because of my apparent impatience) waved me, menuless, towards the bar.

Fortunately, once I did sit down, the kitchen was as fast as wildfire. Everything I ordered arrived in quick succession - and it was impossible not to order a whole host of items, as there's such a delightful variety at Salumeria Rosi. There are house-cured meats, goat, cow and sheep's milk cheeses, salads and various small plates.

First I went for the salumi and cheese, ordering the Parmigiano Reggiano and some porchetta toscana. A basket of crusty bread came with the dishes. Several chunks of sweet-salty hard cheese arrived on a balsamic-drizzled little plate. The two paper-thin slices of porchetta were redolent of rosemary and as tender as toro sashimi. I was glad for the lemony shredded endive salad that arrived afterwards (I recommend it as a palate cleanser).

Then it was time for sweet butternut squash risotto, which was absolutely wonderful. Crushed amaretti were sprinkled over a creamy orange expanse of butternut squash puree, which contained plump grains of Arborio rice. The portion size was perfect.

I really should have quit while I was ahead, but the dessert menu called to me. I settled on the torta di mele, which was light as air between its soft apple slices. A dollop of real whipped cream was served on the side. I finished the meal with a nice strong cup of espresso.

Good things come to those who wait!

Salumeria Rosi: 283 Amsterdam Ave., (212) 877-4800.

Restaurant Week - Fleur De Sel (CLOSED 2/09)

Once again, it's that wonderful time for year: "Restaurant Week" (it's actually two weeks - ETA, they just changed it to a month for this year). Last year, I dined at Riingo; this year, I decided on Fleur de Sel. The restaurant proved very accommodating to last-minute reservations changes; I'd asked for a table for two at 1 p.m., but our party suddenly expanded to three. On the phone, the reservationist said she could probably fit us in at a tight corner table that is sometimes used for trios, but when we arrived, we were comfortably seated at a table for four.

The $24.07 lunch menu included a choice of butternut squash soup or sardine napoleon, pan-seared blue cod or veal breast topped with a large oxtail ravioli, and macerated prune bread pudding or sorbet with meringue. All three of us ordered the same main course and dessert, but diverged with the appetizers. (There was an optional wine pairing, but it was just too early in the day for this - especially after last night's overindulgence at Artisanal.)

Warm sourdough bread got us going, and then the two of us who had ordered the soup drank in the heady flavors of truffle and coconut. A white puff of coconut milk foam decorated the bright orange squash puree, which was laced with truffle oil. The sardine napoleon was a savory curiosity (how do I eat this, my friend wondered) of three thin, crunchy Parmesan crackers layered with soft, salty sardines, and it was served with a small arugula salad.

The pan-seared blue cod lay atop a carrot coulis, which contained "rice beans" ("These are like the orzo of beans," remarked my friend. I'd been unaware of the existence of this legume and mistakenly thought the dish would be served with rice and beans), onions, diced tomatoes and chives - altogether delicious.

Warm, buttery bread pudding had a moist prune filling, and the side scoop of caramel ice cream melted appealingly into its bed of cookie crumbs. Strong coffee came with complimentary biscotti. (Although the restaurant was full, we were not rushed out after our coffee.)

Fleur de Sel will also be serving this menu next week.

Fleur de Sel: 5 East 20th St., (212) 460-9100.

Sweets News

• The newest location of the vaunted Roasting Plant (75 Greenwich Ave.) serves more than just coffee - it is also selling $1 "cookie dough shots." There are mint brownie, chocolate-chip and Oreo flavors, and when summer rolls around, you'll be able to mix the dough into the gelato of your choice.

• Here's a bit of cookbook news: Barbara Passino, the chef/owner of Napa Valley's Oak Knoll Inn, is about to release Chocolate For Breakfast, a selection of both sweet and savory recipes. Pre-order your copy, and soon you'll be making poached apples in chocolate gingerbread cookie cups, chocolate tacos, and even a chocolate omelette!

• But if you can't wait for the book's release, and you want to incorporate chocolate into your breakfast routine immediately, take a look at this lovely chocolate con churros recipe (and delightful article) from Alejandra Garcia on NPR.
  

Dirt Candy

The prospect of a hearty meal was the only thing that could pull me out of my apartment tonight. A friend had invited me out for a belated birthday dinner, so I'd reserved one of Dirt Candy's nine tables. As I walked outside, hail hit me on the head, and a harsh wind assaulted me. But all I could think about was the opportunity to reacquaint myself with Amanda Cohen's vegetarian cooking, which I had so admired at now-defunct Heirloom.

My friend and I started out with a plate of jalapeno hush puppies, happily smearing our spicy cornmeal crunchies with lots of maple-flavored butter. (Like all other dishes on the menu, the hush puppies can be made vegan on request. That does not mean that any random request will be fulfilled - I was surprised to overhear a diner try to order scrambled egg whites.) Next, we enjoyed bowls of vibrant, ginger-scented spinach soup. Not being cream-based, the soup was deliciously light. In each bowl floated three dumplings stuffed with smoked tofu and diced water chestnuts.

One of my favorite dishes of the evening was the portobello mousse appetizer with truffled toasts. The mousse had the texture of Japanese goma-dofu, but with an intense mushroom flavor instead of sesame. The square plate also included some sweet fennel-pear compote and a heap of meaty-tasting portobello slices.

Our main courses were arranged like meat-based dishes, with proteins at the center of beds of vegetables or grains. The crispy tofu resembled a seared salmon fillet, and it lay atop a melange of green vegetables like edamame and kohlrabi. I ordered the tempura egg on stone-ground grits... the white was well-done, but as I cut further in, the bright orange organic yolk ran out and swirled into the grits. There were also pickled shiitakes, corn kernels, watercress, and huitlacoche (edible black corn fungus) in the dish. I really don't think a meat-eater would go hungry at Dirt Candy! (According to Ms. Cohen, the majority of her clientele are not total vegetarians.)

A birthday isn't complete without dessert, and there were two versions of "cake and ice cream" on the menu. One featured sesame and grapefruit, the other, chocolate, sweet potato and chili. (The pastry chef, Debbie Lee, used to work at P*Ong, one my favorite restaurants. Incidentally, I was just there last night, devouring the hot dark chocolate with milk foam and pomegranate.) I ordered Cake and Ice Cream #2; there was a scoop of sweet potato sorbet adorned with a dried sweet potato chip, some chocolate chili ice cream, and a square of fudgy chocolate cake. (I just wish the cake had been hot, so I could have made a glorious mess with the ice cream and sorbet. But the dessert was still very enjoyable!)

Maybe I'm jumping the gun, as I just got home, but my next visit to Dirt Candy will involve mixed greens with grilled cheese croutons, carrot risotto, and popcorn pudding.

Dirt Candy: 430 East 9th St., (212) 228-7732.

Chocolates for All Personality Types

It's never too early to start thinking about Valentine's Day - and all of its attendant chocolates! My little list of chocolates by personality will ensure that your chocolate gift is as unique as the person you're buying it for:

• The Earthy-Crunchy: Your environmentally aware friend will appreciate a recycled box of Fine & Raw's dark chocolate bonbons made with raw blue agave nectar, virgin coconut oil and a touch of Himalayan sea salt. (To me, they taste like adult Mounds bars, but without all the cloying sweetness.) You can find these at gourmet or natural food stores around the city - I happened to get mine at Sustainable (109 Ave. A, 212-254-5400).
  

• The Artsy-Fartsy: The aesthete will marvel at a box of beautifully decorated truffles from Eric Gererd's L'Atelier Du Chocolat (59 West 22nd St., 212-243-0033). I first tasted Mr. Gererd's chocolates at Brooklyn's Bierkraft in 2003. Although none of the beer flavors have made it to the new menu, there's a wasabi truffle with a bamboo leaf pattern, a red-and-brown zig-zagged red forest fruit in dark chocolate ganache, and a heart-covered rosewater truffle. For Valentine's Day, there will be special hollow chocolate hearts! It's enough to make you feel like you're in love, even if you aren't.

• The Comfort Foodie: What could be more comforting, or more chocolatey, than the double chocolate and triple chocolate cupcakes at Dessert Club Chikalicious (204 East 10th St., 212-475-0929)? Call the night before Valentine's Day and they will make up a pretty box for you.

• The Do-It-Yourselfer: Give someone a chocolate truffle; you have fed her for today. Teach someone to make her own chocolate truffles, and you have fed her for a lifetime. A gift certificate towards the French Culinary Institute's upcoming "Chocolate Truffles, Bonbons & More" course will go a long way towards making your special someone into an expert chocolatier. You might indirectly benefit! (More info at 888-324-CHEF.)
  

Tacos Mexico

This week, New York Magazine includes a list of the best foods under $10. Although the list neglects Queens, if you're willing to take the N train a few stops past Lexington & 59th St. into Astoria, you'll find one of the very best (and most delicious) deals in town: the awesome chiles rellenos at Tacos Mexico. Try to finish them, I dare you! Two mild green peppers are lightly battered, stuffed with melted queso blanco, smothered in a hearty tomato sauce, and served with a three-day supply of refried pinto beans, Spanish rice, and five or six warm tortillas. Price? $10.95.

And if you want something other than a stuffed pepper, you can order: nachos, tamales, quesadillas, flautas, chalupas, tostadas, tacos, tortas, cemitas, sopes, huaraches, burritos, enchiladas, chilaquiles, and giant plates of chicken, beef or pork fajitas. Wash everything down with a glass of horchata, and don't forget to take your to-go bag home with you. Happy New Year!

Tacos Mexico: 32-08 38th St., Astoria, (718) 545-5888.

Corton

I've been meaning to get to Corton ever since I heard that chef Paul Liebrandt had a new home. Tonight, I celebrated my umpteenth birthday with some relatives, and this lovely cream-and-gold restaurant was the venue. Liebrandt's dishes are thrilling landscapes that inspire the diner to explore every nook and cranny. Even a vegetable plate ("From The Garden") is full of delicious surprises! But more on that in a bit.

While we sipped glasses of 2006 Chavy-Martin Puligny-Montrachet, my relatives mentioned that they had been chatting with owner Drew Nieporent - apparently, he always wanted to be in the restaurant business, and even watched the Galloping Gourmet as a child. (He's a friendly presence at his latest restaurant.)

We munched on gougeres and fluffy green olive breads, and smeared green-flecked seaweed butter on mini-baguettes. Then, the server arrived to answer questions (what is kalamansi? an Indian fruit resembling a kumquat. what about cobia? a meaty, firm, sharklike fish). We decided to order the $75 three-course meal, opposed to the $120 tasting menu.

Our amuse-bouche was a chilled oyster nestled in gelee, anointed with nutmeg oil and sprinkled with grains of buckwheat (my relatives aren't shellfish fans, so I was the lucky recipient of three of them). I ended up paying them back in king crab tempura; my velvety kuri squash soup featured two pieces of it, as well as a non-fried chunk of sweet crabmeat sprinkled with gold leaf. Other dishes were a beautiful circle of Nantucket Bay scallops, baby greens and raw radishes with an orange sea urchin sauce at the center, and the marvelous "From The Garden." (I don't think I've ever been so excited by a vegetable plate.) Various tiny root vegetables, potatoes, caramelized onions, greens, tapenades, dried vegetable powders, and the odd fruit were arranged in such a way that the tastes changed depending on where your fork landed - here was a patch of sweetness, or a tangy zing, or a paper-thin crispness.

Then it was time for the main courses. Succulent Label Rouge chicken was accompanied by a polenta cake topped with a slice of black truffle, artichokes Barigoule, and a breaded chicken meatball with a compote of diced autumn fruits. Golden amadai, a bream-like fish, was the centerpiece for a ring of sweet onions and melt-in-your-mouth ricotta-parmesan gnudi. Razor clam chowder, added at the last minute, added even more richness. Portions were not overpowering, however.

A coconut sorbet in a blood orange foam, which hid pearls of black tapioca, announced the dessert course. The sweets were excellent, and the artisanal cheese plate was a selection of perfection! It showcased the creamy, sharp, sweet and pungent flavors of Stilton, Langa La Tur from the Piedmont region, Comte, an award-winning Pleasant Ridge Gruyere from Wisconsin, and a wonderful goat cheese. Salted focaccia and cranberry toasts came with the plate. I was momentarily distracted from my gooey-centered, warm chocolate fondant cake with its scoop of ice milk in a sea of cocoa nibs, and a caramel apple dessert with walnuts.

Fortunately, there were two more opportunities to appreciate the chocolate creations of pastry chef Robert Truitt. Milk chocolate/ginger, white chocolate/blackberry and dark chocolate/lime discs soon arrived, and then the server brought by actual drawers full of goodies. One drawer held chocolate towers filled with curried peanut butter, another contained tiny lemon, caramel and espresso macarons, and yet another held a collection of spiced fig/red wine and jasmine-grapefruit chocolates, palets d'or, and salted butter caramels. If only I'd been allowed to take home a box!

Corton: 239 West Broadway, (212) 219-2777.

Bar Breton

The new Bar Breton has a winning formula for these troubled times: galettes (buckwheat crepes) in the $10-$15 range and lots of alcohol! Small plates run about $7, and as I found out, at least one of them is hearty enough for a meal. (There are also a few mains around $20.)

In more of an eating than a drinking mood, I tried to go in on Tuesday, but was told that dinner wasn't served until 5 p.m., although the bar is open all day. (I had a similar experience when Bar Milano first opened; not everyone goes the Bar Stuzzichini route of all-day dining. Oh well!) I'm quite determined when I have to be, so I returned yesterday at 5 p.m. sharp. Chef Cyril Renaud was explaining the origin of the multi-colored glasses that hung from the lighting fixture to some inquisitive diners (journalists?). I tried to eavesdrop, but was soon led to a little booth.

Several galettes looked enticing - according to the menu, the buckwheat flour used to make them is organic and gluten-free. I was going to order the Black Forest ham with Gruyere and egg, but then opted for the wild smoked salmon galette. Instead of being spread out over a plate, it was served like sushi. Rolled-up sections of chocolate-brown crepe were stuffed with a mild horseradish-onion cream and assembled in a neat row upon a stone block. Each piece was topped with a slice of smoked salmon and some red onion.

I wolfed it down in about a minute, realizing that I was going to have to order something else! My eye traveled between the "niac" (small plate) section and the desserts. Profiteroles? Pot de creme with chicory? Nutella crepe? Sardines? Or pate? I settled on the salt-baked potato with oxtail and grey sea salt ($7). This was quite a hearty dish, even more so than the galette. A peeled potato had its insides scooped out, replaced with a rich, delicious oxtail stew. Now I was too full for dessert.

But I'm almost afraid to go back, because I've a feeling I'll be a goner once I try the Nutella dessert crepe.

Bar Breton: 254 Fifth Ave., (212) 213-4999.

Katsuno Restaurant

If you're a regular at Midtown's Restaurant Seo, you might be wondering where Chef Katsuyuki Seo is. It turns out that his fans out in Forest Hills are borrowing him for a little while. Seo, who just opened Katsuno in the former Ran space on Metropolitan Avenue, is arranging lovely plates at the sushi bar while his kitchen turns out specialties like grilled miso-marinated beef, steamed Asari clams, eel with cucumber vinaigrette, and those noodles everyone has come to love at Seo's original restaurant.

There are eight tables in the front of Katsuno (seven of which were full tonight), and two semi-private tables in back. Tonight, people around me were indulging in oshitashi, sea urchin sashimi, and chawan mushi. To start, I ordered a bowl of miso soup (the menu features both red and white versions) with seaweed, scallions and nice big chunks of tofu. My next course was three half-moons of sweet stewed pumpkin in a light dashi. The hearty orange vegetable was sprinkled with bits of yuzu zest.

My main course was a generous portion of grilled miso-marinated cod, its skin lightly charred. A dab of sweet white miso sauce complemented the rich fish, which was served with a big bowl of rice. (Next to me, a couple consumed a plate of rare sliced beef with daikon and citrus ponzu sauce.) Although I was tempted by the sushi menu ("Please ask for today's imported fresh fish from Japan," it said), I had no more room... maybe I'll go back tomorrow.

If you want to try out Katsuno for yourself, you might want to visit on Saturday, Dec. 20 from 5-7 p.m., when the restaurant is throwing a "grand opening party." You'll be able to eat all you want for $25! The menu will include cold soba, grilled chicken in lemon sauce, shrimp tempura salad, and sushi, among other dishes. Bring your own wine and beer - Katsuno expects to receive its liquor license in the next few months.

Katsuno Restaurant: 103-01 Metropolitan Ave., Forest Hills, (718) 575-4033.

Holidays 2008

We're all trying to "tighten our belts" this season. But some of us are also planning on loosening our (literal) belts a few notches! So if you and your friends are still indulging your palates, here are some holiday gift recommendations:

• Those who give home-baked gifts should peruse this extensive online cookie encyclopedia; Gourmet Magazine has made 50 years of Christmas cookie recipes available.

• If you have no time to bake, let Chuck "The Baker" Pierkarski bake for you! Every batch of his brownies helps benefit God's Love We Deliver.
  

• Your friend who wants to learn to cook will love a copy of Martha Stewart's Cooking School: Lessons and Recipes for the Home Cook.

• If you want to splurge on that special someone, Petrossian offers a mouthwatering brunch basket filled with caviar, smoked salmon, duck breast prosciutto, blini; toasts, creme fraiche, honey, cinnamon raisin bread, cranberry ginger cake, chestnut jam, coffee and tea. But even Petrossian is getting into the economizing act; there are several delicious gifts for $100 and under.

• Send a Murray's Cheese Greenwich Village Supper basket to a friend (and then slyly ask to be invited for dinner). (Alternatively, send over a Zabar's Deli Sampler.)
  

• Online retailer Norm Thompson offers adorable, inexpensive holiday sweets.

• Is your friend a restaurant-goer? Then s/he'll appreciate a gift certificate to Hill Country (buy a $25 gift certificate for only $10 at restaurant.com!) or the always-rewarding Picholine, which is now offering a special "menu d'economie."
  

If I think of anything else, I'll post it! Happy holidays.

Demel

It's pouring out today, but if you can bring yourself to leave the apartment, there's a cozy new bakery-cafe you must check out. About a week ago, Austria's famous Demel (founded 1786) set up shop down in the depths of the Plaza's retail area. If you go, I recommend that you order a double espresso with whipped cream (all coffee comes with sugared, chocolate-covered hazelnuts) while you make your selection from one of the most enticing dessert menus in the city. Then, sit back and hope your selection hasn't already been consumed by another lucky patron! When I visited yesterday, I delighted in the warm milk souffle cake with a flask of thick vanilla cream, the dense chocolate truffle cake, the yogurt cheesecake layered with raspberries, and a slice of pound cake topped with strawberries and kiwis. But the signature Viennese apple strudel, Sacher torte and chocolate nougat cakes were but a memory.

Apparently, pastry chefs Edward Jemal and Rahout Michael make daily deliveries to Demel, but if this insatiable demand continues, they will have to deliver on the hour!

Demel: The Plaza Retail Collection, 1 West 58th St., (212) 572-0989.

Zenkichi

In its own simple way, Zenkichi is one of the most beautiful restaurants in Brooklyn. The dark, wood-paneled triplex is a labyrinth of hushed, narrow hallways lined with semi-private dining rooms. Each little room is separated by a bamboo curtain, which the server opens and closes. (If you order the multi-course omakase, as my companion and I did, there's a lot of opening and closing!) The place reminded me of Higashi-Yama Tokyo.

The $48 omakase menu changes every five weeks, and can be accompanied by a flight of sake. Our sakes were arranged in order of sweetness, and contained notes of dark chocolate, citrus and cantaloupe. My favorite was the Shichiken Junmai Ginjo (the chocolatey one). (There is also an assortment of dessert sakes, but I'll have to save those for the next visit!)

Our first course was a bowl of soup made hearty with strips of fried tofu. Then it was time for sashimi: slices of seasoned bigeye tuna atop a bed of julienned peppers, carrots and onions, rich monkfish liver seasoned with Japanese lime, and clean-tasting sea bream.

A yuzu-dressed baby arugula salad featured small chunks of free-range chicken and hen-of-the-woods mushrooms from Shizuoka. Disks of sea-urchin-stuffed fluke tempura were so tasty that we later ordered another tempura dish from the a la carte menu: tiger shrimp oozing with melted squares of Camembert. The tempura was accompanied by sprays of green tea salt and bowls of tentsuyu. (I love green tea salt and wish they served it on popcorn in movie theatres.)

Luscious black cod was lovingly prepared, marinated in salt for one night and Kyoto miso for two. The sake-scented fish was sweet and melted like butter. Tiger shrimp shinjo were two small shrimp/fish cake balls in a subtle broth. (For this course, the diner has a choice between shinjo and slow-cooked pork belly.) The final course before dessert was a plate of seared Mishima beef sushi, accented with ginger garlic soy sauce.

We really indulged in dessert, ordering three more items in addition to the dense chocolate cake with yuzu-topped yogurt-honey ice cream! My companion dug into a soft kabocha pumpkin pudding with ginger syrup and toasted pumpkin seeds, I finished off the nutty kinako cheesecake, and we both cleansed our palates with a grapefruit half filled with bright red grapefruit jelly. I suppose we'll be back in five weeks to see what else the chef has in store for us!

Zenkichi Modern Japanese Brasserie: (718) 388-8985, 77 North 6th St., Brooklyn.

Pure Dark

Does the cold weather have you craving a pick-me-up? You'll find one at the new Pure Dark chocolate shop on Bleecker. Open since the beginning of October, the rustic store sells only the highest-quality, highest-cocoa-content (50% and up) dark chocolate. You can buy it in a slab, a nib or a hunk of bark. But the most unique way to consume it is at the mixing bar! Four different blends of chocolate nibs, fruits and nuts are sold, but you can also hand-pick your own "custom mix" of, say, chocolate, walnuts, and cranberries. This delicious yet nutritious trail mix will give you plenty of energy for your holiday shopping. And if you plan to do your holiday shopping at Pure Dark, here's a cool gift idea: layer a clear, multi-tiered vase with different chocolate mixes.

(Note to bloggers: Apparently, the taking of photos is strictly prohibited inside this store, as I found out when I tried to snap one with my cell phone. This is a shame - if more restaurants and shops institute this rule, it's going to make our job a lot harder!)

Pure Dark: 350 Bleecker St., (212) 367-0920.

Al Di La

To visit Al Di La on a Sunday night is to enter a world where there is no recession. People angle for a good spot in the line out the door, and pepper the host with endless questions about the optimal time for scoring a table. "I'm very sorry, but I don't know what the wait will be at 7." It has been this way for ten years, ever since the little Italian restaurant (arguably the best in Park Slope) opened. The no-reservations policy and cramped communal tables dissuade no one from luxuriating in the wonderful tastes and smells that emanate from chef Anna Klinger's kitchen.

My last dinner at Al Di La had been about five years ago, but I noticed that the menu still listed those delicious malfatti and casunziei, and the hanger steak with arugula that is my companion's favorite. What to order? Rabbit with creamy polenta and olives? Risotto nero? Along came the waiter to make our decision more difficult: anchovy-dressed green salad, homemade spaghetti with lamb ragu, oh, and "there are only two more orders of short ribs." My friend and I started with the special saba-dressed greens, which arrived with fresh rosemary-scented focaccia and a small hunk of buttery Taleggio. The light, sweet, grapey dressing matched the plump cooked white grapes in the focaccia.

I ordered the linguine with clams - simple is beautiful! Lots of minced garlic and the perfect amount of red pepper (my mouth was pleasantly warmed after each bite) made this one of the best versions ever. My friend let me try her spaghetti with lamb ragu - lots of sharp pecorino and pepper livened up the rich, stick-to-your-ribs meat sauce. Our side dish was a bowl of red beets with creamy goat cheese dressing.

We were stuffed, but skipping dessert at Al Di La is a grievous offense. Although the specials included an apricot almond tart, a lime-leaf panna cotta and fig ricotta gelato, I remembered that incredibly buttery warm pear chocolate tart with the big melted dark chocolate chips and the dollop of fresh whipped cream, and that is what I devoured. My friend, who normally doesn't do dessert, finished off a tall glass of large blocks of frozen chocolate-hazelnut fudge (gianduiotto). Two glasses of port, and I wondered why I don't make the trip out to Park Slope more often. (Port makes the R train a little more bearable.)

Al Di La: 248 5th Ave., Brooklyn, (718) 636-8888.

Sweets News

• If you want to consume a lot of sweets while simultaneously burning off the calories, do I have an event for you! Bruce Scher of Walking Tours Manhattan will be leading a "Free NYC Dessert Fest" chocolate/gelato/cupcake tour on Sunday, Dec. 7 at 10:30 am. Meet at the West Village's Magnolia Bakery (401 Bleecker St.), and look for the guy wearing a red baseball hat with the "Free NYC Dessert Fest" logo. The tour will last around 2 hours, but the sweet memories will last a lot longer.

• Looking for that unique Thanksgiving dessert? The Chocolate Room Brooklyn is baking up a limited amount of their spectacular chocolate pecan pies. Call (718) 783-2900 to place an order.

The 11th Annual Chocolate Show

Pulsating music courses through the speakers, and giant glossies of red-lipped models decorate the entrance to Pier 94. But don't worry, you haven't wandered into a fashion show by mistake; this year's Chocolate Show just has an extra emphasis on style. The visual focus extends to many of the chocolates!

Virginie Duroc-Danner of France fashions extraordinarily beautiful confections in many different colors. Her bright crocodile boxes filled with truffles make a great gift, and children will clamor for her ladybugs and teddy bears filled with salted butter toffee.

Christopher Michael and Christopher Norman also offer ornate, multicolored chocolates. The Mary's of Japan exhibit showcases a new line of ganaches decorated with delicate Japanese flowers - you can watch the chocolatiers hand-painting them. Boissier is selling pink tins of little chocolate petals. Romanicos is selling smart-looking chocolate sushi. Those who covet an attractive wrapper as much as its contents will want to visit the Bloomsberry stand.

This year's chocolate-dressed mannequins feature Wonder Woman, Batgirl and Iron Man costumes. And if you want to see a master chocolatier create a work of art before your very eyes, don't forget to see Derrick Pho's homage-in-progress to our new President-elect! Pho's medium is Callebaut.

You might be thinking, "Yes, I want to see everything, but I also want to TASTE everything!" Here are my tasting tips:

• The Valrhona stand is verrry generous with the samples (dark chocolate orange peels, mmm). (Don't forget to visit the new Valrhona Boutique at the Food Emporium at 1175 Third Ave. In other openings, the new Lily O'Brien's Chocolate Cafe is opening at 36 West 40th Street in mid-December.)

• An absolute must-try: the Guido Gobino goodies. I had the opportunity to interview this master of gianduja for an upcoming article in Dessert Professional, and I can tell you that there is nothing on the planet like Gobino's olive oil/sea salt cremini. You can't find them at any store in the U.S., so stock up at the show!

• This year, you can find Mexican hot chocolate at the Chuao Chocolate stand, and espresso cocoa at Chocolat Moderne.

• Fairytale Brownies are back with Belgian chocolate cream-cheese brownies.
  

• One of the most exotic tastes you will encounter is the "Pig Candy" at Roni-Sue's - it's chocolate-covered deep-fried bacon! Roni-Sue also has a new line of pumpkin spice truffles - just in time for Thanksgiving.
  

• But if you're a chocolate purist, go for the single-origin, 67% cacao bars at the Republica Del Cacao. According to the vendor, the Maniba bar has a hint of mango because the beans are grown near mango trees. Also, make sure to snag a bunch of couverture wafers at Guittard. (Guittard is always forthcoming with the samples!)
  

Finally, if you plan to eat so much chocolate that you develop stretch marks, your last stop should be Palmer's, where you can pick up a jar of cocoa butter lotion.

The 11th Annual Chocolate Show: Pier 94 (12th Ave. @ West 55th St.)

New York Taste 2008

I've just returned from the 2008 edition of New York Taste, a/k/a "The Most Dangerously Gut-Busting Event in NYC." This year, the gala was held in the 18,000-square-foot Skylight. Somehow, in the midst of all the food and drink and fabulous people, I ran into HungryMan and Nosher, my buddies from NYCNosh. "So, Salli Vates, what is a must-try?" they asked me.

"Well," I began, "you've got to have Le Bernardin's brown butter cream topped with sweet potato caviar and pistachios, with a bottom layer of red wine caramel. Maybe you're not ready for dessert yet, but it's one of the most spellbinding dishes I've tried tonight." HungryMan and Nosher hurried over to the Le Bernardin table (well, as fast as you can hurry in a crowd as dense as the 6 train during rush hour). They heartily agreed with me. "What else?"

"Hmm. Well, I really liked the two chefs from across the pond, Tom Aikens and Anthony Demetre. Aikens has a delicious salt cod brandade salad; it looks like a miniature English garden with dill, scallions, cucumber and yellow edible flowers. And Demetre is serving a tender smoked eel with horseradish. Oh, and you must eat Adour's chocolate-hazelnut croustillant with orange granita!" Nosher thought the granita had a bit too much ginger, but everyone agreed about the brandade.

Some other dishes I really enjoyed were: The Spotted Pig's flavorful haddock chowder topped with a homemade cracker; the goose breast with chestnut dumplings of Table 8, a restaurant due to open at the Cooper Square Hotel in December; Anita Lo's subtle tea-smoked salmon, Allegretti's Provencal deboned rabbit; and Eighty-One's plump seared scallop with truffled celery root puree in a chestnut bacon broth. Wait, I'm forgetting something. Well, Craftsteak was serving up Wagyu brisket and truffled grits, and Riingo had a miso-cured salmon, and Craig Koketsu featured some wild savory caramel apples in bacon, pumpkin seed and sage flavors.

Of course, there was alcohol galore, both edible and drinkable. Chef Carmen Gonzalez, who is releasing an exciting new cookbook, served a full menu using Bacardi flavored rums. I loved her flan with orange Bacardi-spiked salsa. Her other offerings were pork bites, seared tuna and coquitos. I had to be careful, though - last year, I indulged in too much drink. So, even though there was a lot of Domaine de Canton ginger liqueur and red wine, I mostly stuck to the Fiji water! All the better to eat it with, my dear.

Finally, it was time to focus on dessert. HungryMan, Nosher and I missed the presence of Payard, but we made sure to dig into Oceana's rectangle of chocolate/peanut butter mousse with green apple gelee and the one-bite hot chocolate "lollipop" donuts from Blaue Gans. HungryMan dared me to have another helping of the brown butter cream - but I couldn't.

However, I made sure to enter the Virgin Atlantic raffle. If I win two tickets to London, I'm heading straight to Tom Aiken's restaurant! By that time, I will have regained my appetite.

Terroir

Attention Terroir fans: as of last weekend, the ultra-popular wine bar is serving brunch! So you'll have another chance to grab one of the bar's coveted seats. There are four new dishes: French toast with warm maple syrup and pork sausage, bacon egg and cheese on ciabatta, a rapini-bacon frittata, and smoked salmon sandwich with capers and hard-boiled eggs.

I took my seat at the bar this past Sunday morning, anxious to try one of the new brunch items. But I was distracted by the regular menu, specifically the fried mozzarella and the white anchovy panini. All sandwiches are served on Sullivan Street Bakery bread, and while it would be almost impossible to make a mediocre sandwich with that bread, mine was particularly delicious. The crusty toasted ciabatta was splashed with a bit of balsamic, and then topped with crunchy frisee, delicately sliced hard-boiled eggs (more yolk than white), sweet pickled red onions, and marvelous white anchovies. Everything was sprinkled with a bit of black pepper (it's the details that are important!). I also devoured a bowl of parsley-and-Parmesan-dusted fried bocconcini in a hearty tomato sauce. (Next time I intend to take advantage of the charcuterie and cheese; I'm curious about a cheese with the name "Constant Bliss.")

It was too early for me to have some wine, but I enjoyed reading the funky little book of a menu - it contained a history of Chateauneuf du Pape, a large list of Rieslings with residual sugar, and a tongue-in-cheek poem entitled "Wine In A Box."

The restaurant owners, Marco Canora and Paul Grieco, have such a fixation with sherry that they serve free glasses of it from 5-6. They've also employed a designer to create a line of temporary "Jerez" tattoos! "I think I'm going to cover my entire body with them for Halloween," the bartender told me. He also informed me that there was a special bacon crumb cake dessert (I think I saw something similar to this at the Dessert Truck), but I was too full.

I find it interesting that the coasters implore the customers not to waste their food. At Terroir, how could you?

Terroir: 413 East 12th St. No phone.

Sweets News

Here are your Sweets News items for October 30, 2008:

• Kyotofu, the Japanese bakery, is celebrating its second anniversary by handing out free sweets! Stop by today and pick up some shiso-coconut and yuzu-vanilla cupcakes. (705 9th Ave., 212-974-6012.)
  

• Are you looking for some scary sweets for Halloween? Silver Moon Bakery has just what you need: pumpkin shortbread cookies, orange-iced chocolate and vanilla buttercream cupcakes, and "ghost cakes!" There's also a "bread of the dead." (Spooky!) (2740 Broadway, 212-866-4717.)

• As you may know, Chocolatier Magazine, and its sister publication, Pastry Art & Design, have been consolidated into the new Dessert Professional Magazine. If you pick up the September/October issue, you'll see my little guide to eating all of the chocolate in Torino, Italy.
  

Lucky Cheng's

Lucky Cheng's, which might be described as a meeting between China Grill and La Cage Aux Folles, is something of a New York institution. Since 1993, it's been famous for its impossibly fabulous drag queen waitresses and risque dinner shows. There's lots of entertainment: off-color comedy routines, balloons fashioned into shapes you'd never see at a children's party, souvenir thongs, and a tableside tarot reader named Angel Eye. (I don't know if she gives financial forecasts.) The three-course dinner-and-show combo is $32, with supplements for certain items.

When I visited this weekend, the couple next to me was utilizing Angel Eye's services. The music was such a volume that the boyfriend didn't hear his date ask the psychic about marriage. No matter, he was soon pulled onstage by "Rhapsody In Blue," an amazingly athletic dancer with glittering blue eyeshadow. Rhapsody announced the start of the amateur lap dance competition. An entire table of 21-year-olds dissolved into giggles as the boyfriend was relieved of his shirt. (He wouldn't be the last victim!)

As for the food, I found the fried-er, the better! My favorite dish was a plate of three jumbo shrimp encased in a thinly fried crust. Other items seemed to differ from the menu descriptions; there weren't any black sesame seeds in the black-and-white sesame salmon, and a Thai basil pesto was more like a black bean sauce. (But who really cares when you've having so much fun? Besides, there's cheesecake with raspberries and whipped cream for dessert.) The couple next to me enjoyed their fried rice and pan-roasted duck, although the boyfriend was too busy dancing to eat most of it.

The lap dance winners were chosen, smiles abounded and my mood was much lighter than it was at the start of the evening. (Have to stop watching that C-SPAN.) I went over to the host to thank him for a fun night, and when I told him my pseudonym, he said, "Salli Vates - that's a great drag name."

Lucky Cheng's: 24 1st Ave., (212) 995-5500.

A Sweet Trip to Beacon, NY

Beacon, a sort of Williamsburg-on-the-Hudson, is known for its spectacular modern art museum and countless small galleries. It's also a great place to enjoy the fall foliage. Best of all, the town offers many opportunities for serious sugar shock!

Beacon is home to Dutchess County's oldest candy store, the Alps Sweet Shop (269 Main St., 845-831-8240). Alps sells all the old favorites like champagne truffles, fruit gels, almond turtles and licorice, but it's the Halloween candy that is truly impressive! Chocolate witches, jack-o-lanterns, bats, eyeballs, spiders, skulls and ghosts will delight your trick-or-treaters. If you like your sweets less macabre, treat yourself to one of Alps' amazing "Ultimate Apples." (Don't worry, they're not that virtuous - heavy layers of chocolate and caramel have robbed them of most nutritional content.)

After you've filled your goodie bag, go across the street to Max's on Main (46 Main St., 845-838-6297). There, you'll find two of the most decadent desserts known to man: the Fi-Doh-Doh (a blondie covered with vanilla ice cream, chocolate sauce, whipped cream, white chocolate and caramel glaze) and the Fi-Dah-Dah (the chocolate bundt cake variation).

The Upper Crust Cafe & Bakery is no more (it will soon be an upscale cafe), but HomeSpun Foods (232 Main St., 845-831-5096) is a wonderful stopover for pastry. Crumbly, buttery pear/raspberry jam scones, fig tarts, bread pudding and fresh-baked chocolate-chip cookies are some of the delights served at HomeSpun. Also, check out the small gift section; it features beautifully-designed Ludomar chocolate bars.

Now I've got to tell you about something really special: the artisanal popsicles at Zora Dora (201 Main St., 646-206-3982). Have you ever tried a vanilla-beet tie-dye popsicle? Or a chocolate-chipotle chunk? How about Italian coffee bean, or roasted bananas with saffron and pistachio (out of this world). Zora Dora, which uses Ronnybrook Dairy and local produce in its ices and creams, has been open since June. The store is already producing ice cream for restaurants all over Beacon and nearby Cold Spring.

So now your lips are chattering. Put down that popsicle, and before you get back on the train, warm up with a cup of cocoa at Muddy Cup (129 Main St., 845-831-1003). The cafe serves just about every variety imaginable, from cinnamon-chocolate to chocolate-cherry to peppermint patty cocoa.

(Note: Be advised that when visiting Beacon on a Monday, you won't be able to enjoy a pierogi at Marlena's, a pad thai at Sukhothai, or a cup of tea at The Cup & Saucer Tea Room. However, there are plenty of other goodies!)

Oh, Olana!

Last week's NYC Wine & Food Grand Tasting was packed with people. I was tripping over wineglasses and bumping into briefcases while I tried to grab all the goodies. There were Kobe beef hot dogs, cups of carrot ginger soup, truffled pizzas... in my excitement, I tried to take a butternut squash root beer float before it was ready, evoking a stern rebuke. "This stand is all about please and thank you!" "I'm sorry, please," I mumbled.

But then I saw the welcoming face of Al Di Meglio, chef/co-owner of newcomer Olana. He was dishing out pumpkin tortelli with crushed amaretti. The delicious pasta, and Mr. Di Meglio's charming manner, convinced me to check out the restaurant. I brought a friend there just a couple days later.

The service was just as welcoming as Mr. Di Meglio had been. "We've been waiting for you," smiled the host. We requested a table in the back, away from the noisy, sceney bar.

Olana is located in the former Mad 28 Italian restaurant. It was completely renovated; the pizza oven's stone wall was knocked down to make way for a pretty private room that seats 35. The bar features elderflower mojitos, little bites like crispy onion rings and lamb burgers, and plenty of people-watching! But if the bar is Dos Caminos, the restaurant is Blue Hill. All ingredients are sourced from farms, and the butter, ice cream and pasta are homemade. Right now, the menu includes all those wonderful autumn tastes: butternut squash, chestnuts, celery root, nutmeg and spiced pears.

Although my friend and I were tempted by the trio of pasta (mint tacconi in lamb sausage ragu, cauliflower ham risotto and squash tortelli with shaved Grana Padano), we decided to go with the $48 prix fixe. Our server brought by four different rolls and two different butters, and then we went at our pork shoulder terrine amuse-bouche.

My butternut squash soup was a delightful little spectacle. The server produced a flask of bright orange puree, and poured it into my small glass dish, which contained mushrooms, bits of mushroom flan and a flourish of smoked cinnamon cream. My friend chose the ricotta-stuffed chestnut crespelle in a sauce of sage and brown butter. The crepe was moderately sized but deliciously rich.

"Is this nutmeg?" asked my friend as he tasted the spaghetti squash that came with his roasted free-range chicken. The chicken had been completely deboned except for one decorative drumstick. I dug into the roasted local brook trout... crispy on top and meaty, it lay next to a little pile of herbed baby artichokes, little red onion curlicues, black kale leaves, baby carrots, and a surprise: shrimp dumplings the size of small scallops.

Mr. Di Meglio came over to inform us about a special event on Oct. 27 where he'll host the upstate farmers that provide Olana's ingredients. He also talked about his upcoming Thanksgiving menu. Mains will include slow-cooked turkey breast and leg confit, roasted prime rib, spice-glazed heritage ham with quince mustard, and herb-crusted salmon. Diners will be able to order the side dishes (pecan candied yams, black truffle mashed potatoes, orange-cranberry sauce) family style. (If you come with my family, you'd better make sure you get some of the potatoes before we finish them all.)

My friend and I then attacked our intensely butterscotchy sticky date pudding. The warm pudding arrived next to a scoop of bracing pomegranate sorbet - I imagine the sorbet is supposed to help you get through the rich pudding! The final touch was a plate of homemade mint marshmallows, a cute ceramic pot of dark chocolate fondue, and some butter cookies.

I never get enough of the local/seasonal food craze, and Olana's elegant yet comforting cuisine will have me coming back for more.

Olana: 72 Madison Ave., (212) 725-4900.

Cooking With Bettina Fisher

My kitchen smells amazing right now - it's filled with the aromas of foaming butter, fresh basil, and garlic. This is because I just had a visit from Bettina Fisher. And who is Bettina Fisher? A talented food stylist, caterer, and chef who just happens to teach at-home cooking classes!

If you've been reading this blog for any length of time since its inception in 2002, you probably know that I love food. However, this love does not translate into cooking expertise; I'm not the sharpest tack in the kitchen drawer. Hence my call to Bettina! She sent me a short questionnaire about my likes, dislikes and cooking goals, and then suggested some delicious dishes like halibut in fragrant lemongrass tomato broth, bacon-wrapped trout, whole striped bass with a chunky pistachio relish, and apple blackberry-cake.

But after doing some thinking, I realized that my needs were more in line with Remedial Cooking 101. I wanted to learn how to make an enviably fluffy omelette, to cut and dice vegetables evenly, and to be able to whip up a delicious tomato sauce in a few minutes.

Bettina arrived right on time, and I set about searching for that knife set I registered for 3 years ago. She gave me a brief tutorial on the knives (paring, boning, serrated, chef) and showed me how to sharpen them. She then gave me some recommendations for vegetable peelers and an over-the-sink cutting board (the kitchen is tiny!).

We started by cutting some onions and potatoes, which would later be used for a hearty potato soup with rosemary and Parmesan. Bettina showed me how to cut in halves and halves again for perfect dice. (Hard work!) Then we chiffonaded basil, cored and cut some tomatoes, and sliced and diced some garlic (so satisfying to mash it in one fell swoop with the knife).

After we indulged in large bowls of pasta, it was time to make omelettes. Bettina produced her copy of The Making of a Cook and I learned about three different techniques: beaten, shaken and scrambled. (The book is a hoot! It specified "only a couple turns of the pepper shaker, and a few grains of salt.") Bettina demonstrated, and then I made my own... dee-licious. (Don't tell Bettina, but I finished hers, as well as mine, after she left.)

I need to practice cutting, but I'm already thinking about the next lesson. Maybe we can make that apple-blackberry cake!

Bettina can be contacted through her Website. Highly recommended.

Curry-Ya

I just want to eat the block of East Ninth Street between 1st and 2nd Avenues up whole. Chikalicious, Chikalicious Dessert Bar (love that chocolate pudding), Dieci, Rai Rai Ken, and Curry-Ya are located there. But it's getting harder to score a seat at one of these precious little eateries, because half the student body of NYU has discovered this economical and delicious street.

With this in mind, I made plans to meet a friend early in the evening at Rai Rai Ken. But it was a little bit hot in there, so we went next door to the spotless white bar at Curry-Ya, home of the Japanese gourmet curry in regular/hot/extra hot varieties. There are few dishes as comforting as a big portion of rice smothered in that thick brown sauce! We sipped oolong tea and white wine as we investigated the options. An organic raw egg over the curry? Corn? Fermented soybeans? And should we have a Berkshire pork cutlet in our curry, or giant deep-fried shrimp, or some grilled chicken? Price wasn't an obstacle, because everything at Curry-Ya is $15 or under. (Plain curry is only $7, and you can add some other little dishes and dessert to your meal for $6.)

We both decided on a hot, hearty vegetable curry, full of sweet kabocha squash, green beans, long strips of shiitake and large chunks of potato. Big plates of rice arrived with circular indentations in the middle, into which we poured our individual pots of curry. I ordered a raw egg and slathered it all over the rice. Although I enjoyed sprinkling the diced crispy onions over top, the prospect of mixing in the accompanying dish of raisins was not appealing to me. But as the nights grow colder, I know I'll often be angling for one of the coveted seats at Curry-Ya.

Curry-Ya: 214 East 10th St., (866) 60-CURRY.

Three Fabulous Fall Foodie Events

Three of the most exciting food events in New York take place within a month! (I'm glad it's no longer bathing suit season.)

• The NYC Wine & Food Festival. (Oct. 9-12) Tickets are going fast for this multi-faceted festival; the talk with Ferran Adria and Anthony Bourdain is already full, as is the Bobby Flay Chelsea Market tour. But if you want to tie one on, check out the Meatpacking Uncorked wine tasting, and if you crave "the ultimate gastronomic adventure," attend the Grand Tasting (Session 2 is already sold out!). (Proceeds benefit the Food Bank for New York City and Share Our Strength.)

• The 10th Annual New York Taste. (Nov. 3) Last year, it took me about a week to recover from this amazing eatathon. So I'm really looking forward to this year's version, which will feature culinary delights from restaurants like Craft, Blue Hill, Telepan and Morimoto. (Proceeds benefit City Harvest.)

• The 11th Annual Chocolate Show. (Nov. 7-9) Three whole days of chocolate and nothing but chocolate. Need I say more?
  

The 15th Annual Japanese Food & Restaurant Show

This year's Japanese Food & Restaurant Show was an exciting event, with sake tastings, premium food samplings and people-watching galore (I caught sight of folks from Haru, Morimoto, Sushi Den, Takahachi and Soba Totto). Japanese cookbook celeb Hiroko Shimbo was on hand to sign cookbooks (you can find her recipe for tuna tartare here). I enjoyed tasting many innovations: Yamamoto-yama tea in apple and mint flavors; "Super Frozen Tuna" sashimi, boiled cut wild octopus from Azuma Foods, coffee gyuhi crepes, and white peach Sakura Muromachi dessert sake.

But the highlight of the show for me was the "History Of Sushi" lecture given by Eiji Ichimura, who was introduced as "the sushi chef's sushi chef." He passed out marinated tuna in bamboo leaves and salmon roe as he gave us a crash course in sushi.

We learned that sushi came into being when a mild vinegar, akazu, became popular; people used to eat a dish of fermented fish and rice. In the 1800s, a gentleman named Yohei Hanaya apparently created the nigiri-zushi that is so widely enjoyed today. Sushi used to be consumed in much larger portions (three pieces were enough for a meal!) and the prized toro, or tuna belly, was once routinely thrown away. Speaking of tuna, it was not generally consumed as sushi until the 1940s. Salmon roe and sea urchin are also relatively recent additions to the sushi menu. Old-time sushi lovers commonly ate clams, shrimp, whitefish, and silver-skinned fish such as mackerel.

Are you hungry? Well, so was I! After the show I headed over to my beloved Hasaki, where the special, coincidentally, was an Edo-Mae sushi plate. Mmm.

Free Pie In Times Square

I usually avoid Times Square like the plague, but I'll go almost anywhere for free pie. And according to an E-mail I just got from ABC, there will be a free pie truck around Good Morning America's Broadway Studios today! The so-called "Mobile Pie Hole" has been traveling the country, serving up apple pie, blueberry pie and Georgia peach cobbler to promote the new season of Pushing Daisies.

The University of Coffee

According to the National Coffee Association, U.S. consumption of coffee now surpasses that of soft drinks. Every day, Americans drink around 350 million cups. With all this consumption comes more sophistication - we're no longer satisfied with a mug of diner dishwater. Starbucks, which has been instrumental in spreading coffee culture (if not universally acclaimed), recently acquired the company that makes high-end Clover machines. (The Clover is responsible for the delicious brew at serious coffee shrines such as Cafe Grumpy.)

But long before there was Starbucks, there was Illy. Founded in 1933, the Italian company is involved in every step of coffee production from the selection of beans to the perfection of espresso machines. Since 1999, Illy has taken on yet another role - that of educator. Illy's University of Coffee, which already includes 11 international campuses, is about to set up shop at New York's International Culinary Center. Classes will begin in February 2009.

I had the privilege of previewing the course, and came away - "chock-full o' information" - and caffeine! The top two baristas in Italy, Giorgio Milos and Michele Pauletic, expertly prepared cappuccinos and espressos for all the students. (I asked Mr. Pauletic, "How long did you study this art?" "Five years!" was his reply.)

The class was divided into morning lectures, complete with slides and movies, and an afternoon hands-on session. Lecture topics included an international history of coffee, production from the bean to the cup, and the physiological effects of coffee. The history lecture was fascinating to me; I learned that coffee was consumed by Yemenite monks as early as the 13th century - it helped them stay alert for prayer. At first, people boiled the green, unroasted beans. Nomads in Africa mixed their crushed beans with animal fat as a sort of trail mix! And here's a bit of cultural trivia; Turkish law once stipulated that a husband's inability to provide enough coffee was - ahem - grounds for divorce.

The history course went on to cover the different types of coffee machines and the foibles of early models. Did you know that the French press was an English invention? Or that espresso machines were once so complex that a barista couldn't even decipher their operation? And with one unfortunate model, levers suddenly hit people in the face, sending them to the hospital. The stove-top espresso pot, invented by Bialetti in 1933, brought coffee-drinking from the cafe to the home. (Here, our instructor digressed, giving us a helpful mini-tutorial: when using a moka pot, don't tamp down the grounds in the filter! And try to pour out the last 20% of coffee, as it's bound to taste burnt.)

The afternoon sessions featured a tasting of 15 espresso blends, and a lesson on how to make the perfect cappuccino. Mr. Milos and Mr. Pauletic created the most beautiful cappuccino art, mesmerizing us with rosettes, leaves and hearts. We learned how to pour the foam to create the best milk canvas for coffee painting - and how to create the best foam! (Some tips: always use whole milk, never reuse the milk, and if there are visible bubbles instead of an even, velvety white layer, it's wrong!)

Mr. Milos reminded us that the perfect cappuccino requires the perfect espresso, and he taught us about all the variables to create it: the amount of coffee, water temperature, water pressure, time of extraction, amount of water, and tamping technique. We also learned about the four important components of coffee beans: bitterness, acidity, sweetness and aroma. (Did you know that when roasted, a coffee bean quadruples in aromatic elements? Or that Ethiopian beans are added to sweeten a blend?)

This morning, after my customary stove-top espresso, I Googled "how to make a good espresso." There were 5,270,000 results; something tells me there's going to be a lot of interest in the University of Coffee.

The International Culinary Center: 462 Broadway, (888) 324-2433.

Salli Vates' Third Anniversary: Adour

For our very special occasion, my companion and I chose a very special restaurant. Fortunately, an intimate table for two on the left side was available (when I'd called, the reservationist said she couldn't guarantee it, so I guess we were lucky). It may sound strange, but one of the first things we noticed about Adour was the near absence of background music. The resulting serenity allowed us to focus all of our attention on a superb tasting menu. (We were going to order a la carte; the tasting menu listed a "strawberry composition" and I wanted the apricot souffle. But Guthrie, the elegant gentleman who took care of us for the evening, happily accommodated the substitution!)

We toasted the occasion with glasses of sauvignon blanc and merlot, spread some salted black olive butter over our green olive rolls, and awaited our amuse bouche: a teacup of gazpacho topped with a layer of watermelon foam. As we drained our cups, the tastes and textures changed; the watermelon foam was clean, sweet and light, and then there was the spicy soup with tiny watermelon dice, and a final crunch of croutons at the bottom of the cup.

Next up was the cucumber vinegar marinated hamachi - what a beautiful dish. An intricate latticework of green apple, avocado, cucumber and crouton matchsticks was surrounded by a flourish of green apple mustard. It lay next to a healthy portion of buttery yellowtail crudo, which was sprinkled with a dark green kaffir lime condiment. At first glance we thought it was crumbled nori, but it had an intense citrus flavor.

The next course, a multicolored vegetable composition, was even more visually arresting; it resembled a modern geometric painting. A background of tomato-colored liquid framed an upward-facing assortment of orange, yellow and green vegetable stalks (this was my companion's analogy: "It looks like a city of vegetables!"). Each tender stalk of potato, fennel, leek, carrot, baby artichoke, carrot, celery and zucchini maintained its own distinct taste.

A lobster "lasagna" consisted of three triangular pockets of pasta (one of which was mottled with strips of chervil, another dark with black olives), heaps of sweet lobster meat, zucchini, and an oven-dried tomato - all in a delectable brown sauce. (Now I was beginning to think I shouldn't have asked for seconds on the rolls.) The main course was a rich breast of duck with a trio of red and white radishes and a caramelized shallot, with a cup of polenta topped with the brown jus and a sliced nicoise olive. We tried to linger over the duck, but it was just too delicious, and we polished it off in short order.

Guthrie then wished us a happy anniversary and presented us with a candle-adorned strawberry composition in addition to the two desserts we'd ordered. Delicately sliced strawberries surrounded a creamy fromage blanc center, and crunchy cookie crumbs lay underneath. But I could not get my spoon out of my gorgeous apricot souffle. Golden and puffy and sugar-dusted, it had a small surprise of warm apricot brandy and ladyfingers at the bottom. I also managed a few bites of my companion's multi-textured cherry chocolate dessert with gianduja sable; layers of icy cherry granita and dark cherry gelee lay in between dark chocolate squares. Then came a plate of raspberry and coffee macarons, and another of dark and milk chocolates. What a meal and an anniversary to remember!

Adour: Adour Alain Ducasse at The St. Regis New York: 2 East 55th St., (212) 710-2277.

Nizza

The folks behind French Roast, Cafe D'Alsace, and Nice Matin have brought us another crowd-pleaser: Nizza. And on my recent visit, the crowd definitely seemed pleased. But as I watched them ooh-ing and aah-ing over their bountiful bowls of pasta and pizzas scattered with basil strips, I had the sneaking suspicion that I'd ordered the wrong thing.

I'd struggled mightily over my choices, too, because the menu couldn't have appealed to me more than if I'd written it myself. It had burrata, fresh pasta filled with greens and herbs, meatballs with polenta and hot peppers... you can see how it would be hard to decide. But my suspicions were confirmed when I was presented with my appetizer, a plate of panisses. The chickpea fries were underdone and gooey on the inside, although the accompanying paprika aioli had a nice kick.

Fast forward to dinner. The couple at the table next to me were happily trying each other's pasta al pesto and spaghettini with shrimp. I'd chosen the marinated swordfish in a "salsa gialla"; the small portion of fish was dry and charred. All was not lost, however; after wondering about the semolina pistachio pudding, I ended up with a dessert winner: the orange-chocolate crostata. It was a hot, flaky pie crust layered with candied orange slices and little bursts of bittersweet chocolate. Now this was something I could enjoy from start to finish!

I'm definitely going to give Nizza another chance; all those Campari-drinkers and pizza-eaters can't be wrong.

Nizza: 630 Ninth Ave., (212) 956-1800.

Borigogae

The transition between summer and fall can sometimes challenge one's immunity. A Korean friend told me that when she felt ill as a child, her mother would prepare her a bowl of jook, or hot rice porridge.

This comforting dish, which is similar to Japanese okayu and Chinese congee, is the specialty at Borigogae, a tiny Flushing storefront. Eight flavors are served there; my favorite is the thick, nutty black sesame, while my sweet-toothed companion favors the sweet pumpkin. We still have yet to try the pine nut and the abalone varieties. But I have to wonder if the restorative properties lie not in the porridge, but in the very spicy, garlicky homemade pickles served on the side.

When I visited Borigogae the other day, the owner not only gave me two kinds of spicy pickles to try, but she unexpectedly gifted me with a large, greaseless scallion pancake. I was glad I had no dinner plans for that evening!

Borigogae: 40-10 Union Street, Flushing, (718) 888-1644.

Free Food and Jazz on East 11th Street

It's hard to believe that summer is almost over. But you can send the season off in style by attending the last two installments of this delightful summer concert series: the 11BC Garden's Summer 2008 Jazz Series. Various local restaurants, including nearby Matilda's, Cafecito and brand-new Panificio, have taken it upon themselves to donate food for concertgoers! (Last Saturday, there were prosciutto quesadillas from Matilda's. Unfortunately, the series' arrangement with Back Forty fell through.) The performance of the standards is just as tasty as the food.

(11BC Community Garden: 626 East 11th St., between Avenues B and C. The remaining performances take place on Saturday, September 6, from 3:00-5:30 pm, and Saturday, September 13, from 4:30-7:00 pm. I'll be sitting next to the sunflowers.)

An Astoria Wine Bar Crawl

The wine bar/small plate trend has spread to Astoria. Many options now await the oenophile who takes the N/W to the last stop (Ditmars Boulevard):

• (4/29/09 NOTE: I've just received word that the following wine bar has just discontinued its live music, and intends to close at some point to become a catering facility. Sad news.) At one of my personal favorites, Vino di Vino (29-21 Ditmars Blvd., 718-721-3010), you can try 18 varieties of Italian cheese, five cured meats, or a delicious brick oven pizza while you quaff from a truly encyclopedic wine menu that includes everything from South African sauvignon blanc to Portuguese cabernet port. For jazz lovers, the terrific Jed Levy Group entertains a couple nights a week. (Note: Vino di Vino serves no dessert or coffee, and it's closed on Sundays!)

• Alas, today was Sunday. My friend and I attempted to go to the above wine bar, but it wasn't open. So we ended up at an unnamed (yes, it truly has no name - 2009 NOTE: And now it is closed!) wine bar at 31-13 Ditmars Blvd. (212-777-0012). Unnamed used to just be a coffee shop, but underwent a drastic change a month ago. Now, you can order the most delicious white anchovies with garlic, or cannellini beans flecked with dill and parsley, or a plate of three cured meats and cheeses with onion jam and fruit, or some house-cured olives with preserved lemons. You can order the olives by themselves, or they also come with the excellent sandwiches on toasted Pain D'Avignon bread. We had the leek/Swiss chard with herbs and crumbled manouri cheese. There are lots of Mediterranean wines, and coffee is from Porto Rico Importing Co. And there's baklava, too!

• About a year ago, the cozy little Crescent & Vine set up shop at 25-03 Ditmars Blvd. (718-204-4774). It serves up a nice selection of charcuterie and cheese like Serrano ham, Stilton and Gruyere, as well a couple salads and a Nutella sandwich for dessert.

• If you like sangria, and you fancy some live singer-songwriter or classical music, you will definitely want to visit Waltz-Astoria (23-14 Ditmars Blvd. 718-95-music). There are live performances several nights a week, as well as cheesecakes from Junior's, both red and white wine sangrias, and wines from Chile, Spain, France, Argentina and Australia. What more could you want!
  

Kampuchea Restaurant

"Do you mind if I have just one more bite?" I asked my friend, somewhat ruefully.

We'd both ordered the Cambodian Num Pang tasting plate - three hefty toasted baguette sandwiches with a choice of eight different toppings. I'd already managed to work my way through the tiger shrimp, the crispy ginger-rubbed catfish, and the grilled tofu. Not to mention, we'd already chowed down on large ears of corn slathered with chili mayo and shredded toasted coconut, and some blue crabs, sticky-sweet with honey ginger soy sauce. Yet here I was coveting my friend's house-cured bacon sandwich with pickled Thai chilies, and her Duroc pork.

"Well, will you let me have some of your pickles? I love these pickles," she answered. I ceded some of the prized pickled cucumber slices. It was a deal.

Kampuchea Restaurant has always served 11-inch num pang, along with noodles, crepes and small plates like crispy pork belly, seared monkfish liver with spiced apricots, and tamarind baby back ribs. But in April, Chef Ratha Chau started offering the sandwiches in smaller sizes, because diners wanted to try more than one kind. They've since become a runaway hit. According to the manager, the most popular variety is catfish, followed by shrimp, bacon and oxtail. (My favorites were the catfish and the bacon; I'm all about the crunch!) All sandwiches arrive on toasted Parisi Bakery bread, with sweet julienned pickled carrots, thinly sliced cucumber, pungent cilantro and chili mayo. (Parisi was the only place that would give Mr. Chau hands-on access to the bakery, where he could experiment with different ratios of wheat and semolina, eventually producing the perfect baguette for his tasty toppings.)

Although I was familiar with Vietnamese banh mi, I hadn't been exposed to the deliciousness that is Cambodian num pang. But now I see why there are so many devotees!

Kampuchea Restaurant: 78 Rivington St., (212) 529-3901.

Allegretti

On my way to Lunetta last night, I spied Allegretti, the brand-new brainchild of Le Cirque alumnus Alain Allegretti. The menu looked so enticing that I had to return today! Although it was only the restaurant's second night, everything went swimmingly. By 8 pm, there was barely an empty table in the house, and people kept stopping by to look inside.

The room was elegant, with hardwood floors, silver light fixtures, cream-colored walls and navy banquettes and chairs. Soothing instrumental music emanated from the speakers, but the restaurant soon became loud and lively with excited patrons. What were they excited about? Well, bigeye tuna tartare, Colorado lamb with spinach ricotta gnocchi, tagliolini with baby cuttlefish and almond pesto, duck breast with honey-lavender vinaigrette, and Perugina sausage with sweet peppers. See, I told you this was exciting!

After choosing a pesto roll (there were also plain and olive varieties), I munched on a complimentary goat cheese/sunchoke toast, and then decided to begin with the waiter's suggestion of heirloom tomato/burrata salad. Often, when eating a Caprese, I end up picking at the tasteless tomatoes while devouring the mozzarella in total. But Allegretti's indescribably delicious rendition showcased intensely juicy, variegated red and yellow tomatoes which equalled the rich burrata in flavor. Sharp-tasting scallions were scattered over the creamy cheese, which melted milkily into little pools of tomato or basil coulis, and the whole dish was seasoned with sea salt and extra-virgin olive oil. A salad to remember.

My main course consisted of four rafts of bright rouget fillets atop a bed of paper-thin zucchini coins, nutty pignoli and red peppers. Woodsy-tasting fried parsley adorned the fillets. The server brought by a thin sauce which tasted of the sea; it was shot through with saffron threads. He poured the sauce on the plate at the last minute, so the full-flavored fish maintained its crisp top layer while being moist on the bottom. (By the way, Allegretti will soon have a working brick oven, which will be used for another exciting fish dish.) I drank a glass of 2007 Convento Muri Gries Muller Thurgau white wine with dinner.

Dessert was a tough choice. Jasmine semifreddo? Licorice panna cotta? Lavender-honey creme brulee? I usually can't resist chocolate, so I chose the grappa chocolate fondant. The dome of dark chocolate mousse was covered by a thick layer of chocolate ganache and served with a scoop of ricotta ice cream, which was studded with almond slivers. Just when I thought I'd had enough, a plate of meringues and anise-scented butter cookies arrived at the table.

Hurry up; soon, you won't be able to get in!

Allegretti: 46 West 22nd St., (212) 206-0555.

Sweets News

First we had free money, now we have free brownies. On Wednesday, August 13, from 11 am to 4 pm, Greyston Bakery will offer free "Do-Goodie" brownies made with Belgian chocolate and cage-free eggs at Columbus Circle (Central Park South @ Central Park West). You can try four flavors, including walnut fudge and espresso bean!

Lunetta

I'm a semi-regular at Bar Stuzzichini, but tonight I decided to try Lunetta, another Italian restaurant a block away in the former Mayrose Diner. (Both restaurants serve a personal favorite: fried artichokes.) I met a favorite dining partner; we ended up being alternately delighted and disappointed with our various choices.

The meal began fortuitously; we had the aforementioned fried artichokes, which were really wonderful. Four delicately crispy artichoke halves were served with fried rosemary and sage, and a lemon slice (no herbs at Stuzzichini). "Artichokes are the most crustaceanly of veggies, aren't they?" I pondered. Next was a salad of baby greens, lightly dressed with anchovy vinaigrette. "Just the right amount of anchovy!" exclaimed my friend. (Stuzzichini serves a much sharper-tasting chicory salad with anchovy dressing; I quite like it as well.)

My friend's linguine with eight Wellfleet clams and roasted garlic was terrific - the pasta was livened up with a bit of hot pepper. I ordered the Monday special: spinach malfatti with brown butter and sage in a tomato sauce. I realize this is a rich dish, but I was expecting something like the ricotta malfatti at Al Di La. The Lunetta rendition consisted of five leaden packets of butter-laden spinach; I couldn't finish the dish.

Dessert was also a mixed bag. A blood orange panna cotta suffered from an overwhelming excess of vanilla, but contained no blood oranges. "Out of season," explained our excellent, helpful waiter. "Would you like something else?" "How about the strawberry-rhubarb crostata and chocolate torte?" "Sure thing," he said, and these two desserts were a perfect ending. The crostata sported a light buttery crust and lots of summer fruit, while the warm chocolate cake was deep and rich and topped with curlicues of candied orange peel.

Lunetta: 920 Broadway, (212) 533-3663 and 116 Smith St., Brooklyn, (718) 488-6269. Restaurant week continues through August 29.

Urban Rustic

My horoscope was certainly off-base this weekend:

Be picky. Spread before you is a magnificent buffet. However, if you try to take a little bit of everything, you’ll be stuffed before you’ve sampled half of it. You need to recognize the limitations you’re stuck with and pick and choose which things you’ll pick up to taste, and which you’ll have to regretfully pass by. Sure, you might accidentally miss out on something that looks horrible but tastes great, but that’s always a risk. Being choosy now will make you more likely to discover the flavors your soul is craving than being gluttonous ever could.

How can one be picky, and not gluttonous, when visiting Urban Rustic, Williamsburg's "farm-to-market" cafe and grocery? Caeriel, the writer of the above horoscope, couldn't have been aware of the freezer full of Adirondack premium ice cream or the produce section overflowing with beautiful berries and apples from Red Jacket Orchards, sugarplums, heirloom tomatoes (both miniature and regular-sized), Satur Farms arugula, and zucchini and summer squash from Bruno Farms. And she couldn't have known about the wealth of maple products like Toad Hill maple syrup and double maple yogurt from Evans Farmhouse Creamery; and the natural-casing chicken-apple sausage from Aidells, organic skirt steak, Hardwick grass-fed beef patties, and center-cut smoked salmon.

Urban Rustic also features a small cafe, where you can tear into a Mission fig-arugula-goat cheese sandwich and accompany it with a bag of North Fork potato chips. Or maybe you feel like ham and Swiss, and you'll finish your meal with a bittersweet chocolate brownie or a Mast Brothers chocolate bar (locally produced from bean to bar) or even a chilled coconut ("We drill, you drink!"). Then again, you might be intrigued by the "Santanoni," an egg/tempeh bacon/pico de gallo wrap, which you'll consume with a bag of Urban Rustic's own banana chips, or pineapple rings, or milk-chocolate raisins...

I'm no astrologer, but I think that a trip to Urban Rustic might be part of your destiny.

Urban Rustic: 236 North 12th St., Brooklyn, (718) 388-9444.

Single-Origin Chocolate Ice Cream!

"Single-origin" is quite the buzzword these days; not only you can buy coffee beans from Colombian farms, but you can decide whether you want your chocolate bar to be Venezuelan or Ecuadorian. Now, you can eat chocolate ice cream from Costa Rica, Ghana, Dominican Republic or Borneo! Choctal, a company which claims to offer "an essential chocolate and vanilla experience," distributes single-origin chocolate ice cream through Trader Joe's. I picked up a package of four cups today at the Queens location. Apparently, the Costa Rica cup features caramel notes, the Ghana has undertones of tropical fruit, the Dominican is aromatic and dark, and the Borneo has a "long, sumptuous finish."

Unfortunately, I'm only going to be able to try three cups, because the fourth is mysteriously absent from the freezer. I'm going to have to ask my companion about this.

Hideaway Restaurant

It's hard to believe that a place as idyllic as Ocean Beach exists. Spotless, carless and litter-free, this Fire Island village is kept that way through strict regulations - its popular nickname is the "Land Of No." (In 1977, two people were famously arrested for eating cookies outside.) But after dining at Hideaway Restaurant, I propose a new moniker for Ocean Beach: the "Land of Yes, Yes, Yes!" Craig Attwood (formerly of NYC's Patroon and Islip's The Gatsby) is the Hideaway's executive chef, and he presides over an inspired menu with lots of seafood and a few Asian touches. (NOTE: As of 2009, Mr. Attwood is no longer at the Hideaway.)

Like Ocean Beach's other waterfront restaurants (Maguire's and Matthew's), the Hideaway features an outdoor dining deck. But diners can also enjoy the sunset inside, at a table decorated with fresh flowers and white votives in cornflower-blue holders. My companion and I sat by a window and watched people disembark from their boats to come and eat.

We sipped Shiraz and munched on warm focaccia as we waited for five-spiced baby back ribs and a beet and goat cheese napoleon. The six meaty ribs came with a refreshing salad of mint and lightly pickled watermelon slices. My napoleon was an imaginative creation - no puff pastry in sight, it was a little layered sculpture of beet circles, their juice painting warm goat cheese disks bright vermilion. The sweet beets mellowed the sharpness of the cheese.

I had considered ordering the yellowfin tuna sashimi appetizer, but figured this would be redundant with the coriander-crusted tuna. This dish was incredibly delicious; two seared pieces of tuna, their insides rare, lay atop a bed of buttered basmati rice interspersed with asparagus tips and slivers of shiitake. Green cilantro aioli encircled the dish. I finished every bite. My companion ordered the four giant diver scallops with watercress salad and oven-roasted tomatoes.

Fresh whipped cream was the final touch on each of our desserts, which were a zingy little Key Lime tart on an ultra-buttery crust, and a warm chocolate souffle cake accompanied by rum caramel banana pudding.

(I don't know how I had room for two Frisbee-sized banana pancakes at Rachel's Bakery the next morning. Maybe it was the effect of those ocean breezes.)

Hideaway Restaurant: Bay Walk, Ocean Beach, Fire Island, (631) 583-8900.

Free Money!

No, a spammer didn't get a hold of my login and password (at least, not yet). The free money I'm referring to is a promotion that Picholine is running to celebrate its 15 years of operation (and counting)! Just click on this link and you'll be awarded a $50 gift certificate. I think I'll use mine for a French wine and cheese flight.

Picholine: 35 West 64th St., 212-724-8585.

3 Veggie Lunches For $8 Or Less

Occasionally I receive E-mails from hungry readers seeking recommendations. This post is for the vegetarian East Sider who was looking for an inexpensive lunch.

• Zen Burger (CLOSED as of 12/12/08. I hope they reopen somewhere!) This environmentally-friendly answer to McDonald's serves an entirely vegetarian menu of "burgers," "hot dogs," and "chicken" sandwiches. The sandwich buns contain whole wheat flour, the coffee is fair trade, the napkins are 100% recycled, and all after-tax profits on bottled water are donated to the environment. A meal, which includes a sandwich, fries and drink, runs about $7. Personally, I found the burger to be more convincing than the grilled ZenChicken breast - the soy chicken had a strange texture. But after they slapped some cheese, onion, lettuce, tomato and special sauce on top of a Zenburger, I was hard-pressed to distinguish it from a "real" fast-food burger. (Aren't McD's burgers half-soy anyway?) (465 Lexington Ave., 212-661-6080.)

• Lan Cafe. To my knowledge, this tiny Vietnamese joint is the only place in the city where you can order totally veggie banh mi ($5.50). There are lots of rice vermicelli entrees (one question: why is the grilled lemongrass seitan on rice vermicelli $7.95 while the grilled lemongrass seitan on steamed rice vermicelli is $8.95? Random.). My rice vermicelli sauteed with little strips of seitan, bamboo shoots and straw mushrooms was wonderfully peppery. (342 East 6th St., 212-228-8325.)
  

• Dang Lai Palace. A newcomer to the East Side, this kosher dairy "world vegetarian" restaurant serves a lunch special for only $8, which includes an entree, taro spring roll and beverage. I have to confess that I haven't eaten here yet, but it falls under the $8-or-less criterion that my E-mail friend specified. So if you try it, let me know how it is! (180 3rd Ave., 212-505-2000.)
  

The Secret Capogiro Gelato Stand

Last year, I wrote about the intense chocolate gelato of Philly-based Capogiro Gelato. I was so impressed by it that I went on a flavor-seeking frenzy, eventually ordering a case of six different pints. Among them was an incredibly refreshing pineapple-mint sorbet, which I finished in no time.

A few days ago, when the temperature hit 89, I had an inexplicable craving for something frozen and pineapple. I trolled the aisles of Whole Foods and my local bodegas, but the most pineappley thing I could find was a pint of Haagen-Dazs pineapple-coconut ice cream. Rich with cream and eggs, it just wasn't the light treat I craved - and it didn't have that addictive hint of mint.

So I went through my mental archive of food cravings, and realized that my desire dated to that Capogiro shipment one year ago! I went over to their Website, saw my favorite flavor (ananas con menta), and promptly placed an order.

Now, I can understand why you might balk at ordering an overnight shipment of 6 pints of gelato or sorbet, even if you really want to try this flavor. The good news is, you don't have to! Capogiro apparently operates a "secret" gelato stand at Rockefeller Center, on the stairs above Rock Center Cafe. (I say "secret" because Capogiro is not allowed to put their logo on anything aside from cups, or have a sign advertising the origin of the frozen treats.) The stand is open from 11 am-8pm, and it serves three flavors: bacio gelato, limone sorbet and that wonderful pineapple-mint sorbet. The mint is farmed by Capogiro's own farmer.

Of course, you might get to the point where one cup of pineapple-mint sorbet isn't enough. You'll need to stockpile some at home. In that case, order a shipment and take this tip from Capogiro chef/owner Stephanie Reitano: a scoop is great in a rum cocktail!

The Secret Capogiro Gelato Stand: Rockefeller Center, 20 West 50th St., on the stairs above the skating rink and Rock Center Cafe. Look for the orange umbrella.

Chocolate Bar

(4/28/09 NOTE: The Chocolate Bar has now reopened again at 19 8th Avenue.)

The West Village's loss is the East Village's gain with the relocation of Chocolate Bar, which opened on East 7th St. this week. The attractive new space has barstools and tables, so you can now linger a while. And with so many delicious chocolate goodies, both edible and drinkable, you'll definitely be tempted to stick around. (NOTE: As of March '09, the news is that the Chocolate Bar is moving back to the West Village. It will reopen on April 28 at 19 Eighth Avenue.)

Chocolate Bar is known for its smartly packaged line of chocolate bars with flavors like coconut cream pie, malted milk, raspberry jam, key lime, salty pretzel and caramel apple. Some wrappers are inspired by pop art or graffiti, and owner Alison Nelson has plans for a line of tattoo-inspired wrappers. (She cutely informed me that she got her first tattoo in the East Village, so this seems particularly apt for the new location.)

Throughout the month of July, drip coffee and espresso (all from Gimme Coffee) is 1/2 off. I paid a visit yesterday and tried the espresso egg cream (there are also black & white and hazelnut ones) and an "iced buzzed" (mocha) that knocked my socks off. I used to crave the Mocha Choka at Gimme, but the Chocolate Bar iced mocha is much more chocolatey! Store manager Jack says that he uses 64% cacao chips in this drink. I already want another one; I hope he doesn't think I'm too weird if I stop by again today.

Besides, I didn't get a brownie yesterday. And I didn't get a chocolate-covered Oreo. Or a truffle. Or a chocolate peanut butter caramel bar. Or a chocolate-chip cookie. Or a chocolate-covered graham cracker. Or... did I mention, I really want another iced buzzed?

The Chocolate Bar: 127 East 7th St., (212) 367-7182.

The 54th Summer Fancy Food Show

This year, I wasn't able to spend a lot of time at the Fancy Food Show; I got to the Javits Center shortly before the end. Fortunately, the vendors became very generous with their samples towards the close of the show - a woman was handing out bags of D.O.P. mozzarella di bufala campana! But I made sure not to load myself down with too many goodies, because there were people strategically placed at the exits to check through everyone's bags. (I did see a woman filling up her pockets with chocolates.)

Here are my highlights and bits of precious information:

• A Poilane representative, who was showcasing some wonderful sourdough with D'Artagnan duck pate, informed me that the famous French bakery has plans to begin distribution through Whole Foods. How great would this be!

• San Diego-based Chewy's, which makes gourmet pastries and cookies, has a really yummy crushed rugelach product. The company is marketing cinnamon-walnut and double-chocolate "Insatiable Crumble" as an ice cream topping or a cheesecake bottom. (More info at 800-241-3456.)


• Creative cheddars were a treat for the tastebuds. Grafton Village Cheese was offering up sage cheddar, garlic cheddar and maple-smoked cheddar. (I have a block of the maple-smoked and I'm not sharing it!) Cabot, also from Vermont, had chili-lime cheddar.
  


• There was a Belgian waffle stand, courtesy of Carbon's Golden Malted Waffles!
  


• There was also a lot of alcohol. In the Peru section, a man from CATB Liquor was handing out grape whiskey sours made with Pisco Queirolo. I also had a lime mojito but can't remember where.

• A man from Naturally Nora handed out three flavors of cupcakes. They were dairy-free, soy-free, kosher, and free of artificial flavors, colors, preservatives and hydrogenated oils! (Truly a cupcake for Bloomberg's trans-fat-free New York!) The confetti icing was naturally colored with ingredients like elderberry.
  


• Fresh mozzarella was everywhere, not just at Fattoria Gaia. Lioni Latticini made an appearance; Antonio Mozzarella Factory handed out plastic cups full of bocconcini with basil; and The Cheese Works Ltd. had a mindblowing array of cheese including generous samples of burrata.
  


• Cypress Grove Chevre served up some wonderful chive goat cheese.

• My last stop was Venchi, the Italian chocolatier I became aware of when I visited Eataly this year. I wish the vendor had been freer with the samples; he gave me just one little triple-layered gianduja praline! Fortunately, many chocolate delights are available via the Website.
  

I'm going to end this post with a question for anyone who might know - at the end of the show, what happens to that whole pig at the Euro-USA stand?

Pomme De Terre

Whatever happened to the French fry craze in NYC? B. Frites and Le Frite Kot are history; only Pommes Frites remains - and here I am, constantly desiring French-fried potatoes. This past weekend, my search led me to Pomme De Terre in Brooklyn. Although the charming bistro serves much more than potatoes, I thought I stood a good chance of fulfilling my craving there.

"Since your name means 'potato,' are your potatoes amazing?" I asked the server. "Yes!" he said proudly. "We hand-cut our French fries, and then we soak them in cold water for a day." This sounded like the degree of potato-obsession I was seeking. Soon I was rewarded by a golden-brown mass of salty, crispy goodness. The ketchup tasted homemade.

I could've dined solely on French fries, but I also devoured a shallot-dressed green salad, a whole roasted branzino stuffed with herbs and served with fennel and sweet roasted tomato, and a warm chocolate cake shaped like a many-petaled flower with a vanilla ice cream pistil. (I ate all the petals. Next to me, a couple shared the banana creme brulee. What a wonderful idea!)

I am sure to be lured back to Pomme de Terre by the prospect of grilled dry-aged ribeye, pan-seared skate, and duck leg confit with homemade duck sausage. But above all, I look forward to another order of those French fries.

Pomme De Terre: 1301 Newkirk Ave., Brooklyn, (718) 284-0005.

Greenwich Grill

If you crave Italian food while your dining partner wants Japanese, I suggest an evening at Greenwich Grill - a lovely TriBeCa Italian restaurant where you can order sushi from the Japanese place below! I was unaware of this perk when I visited with a friend this weekend and was surprised to see chopsticks at the place setting.

After reading about the Grill in a local magazine, I was drawn in by the prospect of a restaurant similar to Basta Pasta, a Japanese-owned Italian restaurant in Chelsea. Although the menus are quite different, both places present moderate portions of artfully presented dishes, and the service at each is exemplary.

My friend pronounced her dirty martini "excellent" and I uncharacteristically ordered a cocktail, the "Glinda." (It sounds so "Sex And The City!") The Glinda was a mojito-like drink made with rum, mint, and sparkling wine, but with no lime.

The lime would come in when my friend ordered ceviche - a brightly colored melange of green avocado, red tomato, purple octopus with some clams and striped bass. The dish packed a punch of cilantro and a bit of citrus. I ordered a half-portion of gnocchi in a Gorgonzola cream sauce accented with Parmesan; there wasn't one ingredient or bite in that entree that I didn't like. The seven gnocchi were of the larger, more substantial kind, not the little melt-in-your-mouth puffs of potato you find at Hearth. The green olive bread went to good use, as I could not let one bite of sauce go uneaten!

My friend went the pasta route for her main course, ordering the fettucini in a Thai green curry sauce with Dungeness crab. The coconutty sauce was rather sweet and would have benefited from some spice, but the texture of the fresh pasta was perfect. I loved the deep-fried swordfish with herbed tartar sauce and frisee salad.

Time for dessert! The server was very accommodating when I asked for some whipped cream to go with my "seasonal berry marinade," which was something like a cool raspberry blackberry soup with a dome of fruit hiding a scoop of vanilla ice cream. My friend's tiramisu was incredible; a dusting of espresso and cocoa provided it with an intense flavor, and the dessert did not suffer from the unpalatable surplus of amaretto that I have found elsewhere.

Green kukicha tea was a relaxing and fragrant finish to the meal.

Greenwich Grill: 428 Greenwich St., (212) 274-0428.

Fornino

I was just about to slap a nice big slice of ripe tomato onto my sandwich when I heard about the recall. Oh well. Into the trash it went. But I still craved tomatoes!

At that moment, a friend called me to ask if I wanted to meet for dinner in Williamsburg. A light went on in my head... Fornino! A divine margherita pie, consumed in the backyard garden of this artisanal pizzeria, would be (cooked, and therefore safe) tomatoey perfection. I jumped on the subway and met my friend.

We began with a cheese-laden, creamy Caesar with two slabs of herbed focaccia, and then decided on a pie. The special included pesto oil and arugula. For those of you who haven't been to Fornino (this excludes everyone who lives in Williamsburg), the menu includes three "generations" of pizza, which become increasingly elaborate. Examples: a first generation might be a classic margherita pie; a second generation might be a margherita with the addition of some fennel sausage, and a creative third generation could be anything from a gorgonzola pie with rosemary and caramelized onions or a rock shrimp pesto zucchini pie!

For our part, my friend and I felt like luxuriating in melting pillows buffalo mozzarella, so we shared a large margherita D.O.C. A toothsome, slightly charred crust, a dusting of Parmesan, some basil sprigs and yes, that superlative tomato sauce made the pizza a pie to remember.

I had no room for the Capogiro sorbetto and gelato - next time. And if the tomato recall continues, that next time might be sooner rather than later!

Fornino: 187 Bedford Ave., Brooklyn. (718) 384-6004.

Sweets News

Belgian waffles are bursting out all over, and they're causing me to burst out all over too!

• The brand-new Sweet Melissa Cremerie (276 Court St., Brooklyn, 718-855-3410) is offering big Belgian waffles with two scoops of ice cream, homemade whipped cream and your choice of topping for $10.95. When I arrived there tonight, there was a big "SOLD OUT" scribbled on the blackboard. Darn it.
  

• Le Petit Belge (22 East 14th St., 212-807-7027 ) has been open for three weeks, serving Belgian waffles ("poffies") topped with fresh fruit, whipped cream, and of course, Belgian chocolate syrup. It's a to-go operation, so you can take your waffle and enjoy it in Union Square Park. (After I visited, I soon became La Grande Belge!)